Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Rossio Station: The circa-1900 facade of Rossio Station is Neo-Manueline. You
can read the words Central Station printed on its striking horseshoe arches. Find the statue
of King Sebastian in the center of two arches. This romantic, dashing, and young soldier
king was lost in 1580 in an ill-fated crusade in Africa. As Sebastian left no direct heir,
the crown ended up with Philip II of Spain, who became Philip I of Portugal. The Span-
ish king promised to give back the throne if Sebastian ever turned up—and ever since,
the Portuguese have dreamed that Sebastian will return, restoring their national great-
ness. Even today, in a crisis, the Portuguese like to think that their Sebastian will save the
day—he's the symbol of being ridiculously hopeful.
• Just uphill from Rossio Station is Praça dos Restauradores, at the bottom of Lisbon's
long and grand Avenida da Liberdade.
Praça dos Restauradores: This monumental square connects Rossio with Aven-
ida da Liberdade (listed next). Its centerpiece, an obelisk, celebrates the restoration of
Portuguese independence from Spain in 1640 (without any help from the still-missing Se-
bastian mentioned earlier).
Just off the square is Lisbon's oldest hotel (the Hotel Avenida Palace, built as a ter-
minus hotel at the same time as Rossio Station), the 1920s Art Deco facade of the Eden
Theater, a TI, a green ABEP kiosk (selling tickets for concerts, movies, bullfights, and
sports events; schedules of upcoming events posted in windows) at the southern end, the
Elevador da Glória funicular that climbs to the Bairro Alto, and a Metro station. A block
to the east is Lisbon's “eating lane” (Rua das Portas de Santo Antão), the restaurant-lined
street mentioned earlier.
• While this walk ends here, stroll up Avenida da Liberdade for a good look at another
facet of this fine city.
Avenida da Liberdade: This tree-lined grand boulevard, running north from
Rossio, connects the old town (where most of the sightseeing action is) with the newer
upper town. Before the great earthquake, this was the city's royal promenade. After 1755,
it was the grand boulevard of Pombal's new Lisbon—originally limited to the aristo-
cracy. The present street, built in the 1880s and inspired by Paris' Champs-Elysées, is
lined with banks, airline offices, nondescript office buildings...and eight noisy lanes of
traffic. The grand “rotunda”—as the roundabout formally known as Marquês de Pombal
is called—tops off the Avenida da Liberdade with a commanding statue of Pombal. Alleg-
orical symbols of his impressive accomplishments decorate the statue. (A single-minded
dictator can do a lot in 27 years.) Beyond that lies the fine Edward VII Park. From the
Rotunda (Metro: Marquês de Pombal), it's an enjoyable 20-minute downhill walk along
the mile-long avenue back to the Baixa.
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