Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
At 8am we all set off. We are heading towards Ifalimanjaka (meaning 'Joy Reigns
Here'), in the fivondronana of Manjakandriana. Driving through villages with funny
names like Ambohitrabiby (the 'Town of Animals') brings me back to the time when
such names were familiar. We make one stop at Talatan'ny Volonondry for a break-
fast of rice cakes and sausages: another opportunity to reacquaint myself with long-
lost cousins with whom I spent the long summer holidays as a child. We used to run
around together playing games like catching grasshoppers and then finding carnivor-
ous plants to drop the insect in.
At 10am we reach the tombs. Faces are bright, full of expectancy. I ask what the
daymeanstothem.Theyallagreethatit'sadayforfamilytogetherness;adayforjoy,
for remembrance. We are in front of my mother's tomb. It is made out of stone and
marble: very elegant. The family will have spent more money on keeping that tomb
nice and well maintained than on their own house.
Everybody stands around in front of the tomb waiting for the main event: the open-
ing of the tomb door. We have to wait for the president of the fokontany (local au-
thority) to give permission. Although it had been arranged beforehand he cannot be
found anywhere. This wait, after such anticipation, is taken patiently by all - just one
of those things.
Mats are laid on the ground on one side of the tomb. The atmosphere of joy is so
tangible!Musicisblaringout.Permissionisfinallygrantedtoenterthetomb.The ray
aman-dreny (elders) are the first to enter.
The inside of my mother's tomb looks very comfortable with bunk beds made out
of stone. It is very clean. There are names on the side of the beds. The national flag
is hoisted on top of the tomb as a sign of respect. The conversation goes on happily
onthelittleverandaoutsidethetomb'sdoor,peoplechattingabouttheeventandwhat
they have been doing in the last few days.
They start to take the bodies out. Voices could be heard above the happy murmur:
'Who is this one? This is your ma! This one your aunt! Here is your uncle! Just carry
them around!' The closest relations carry the body but others could touch and say
hello. When carrying them, they make sure that the feet go first and the head behind.
Everybody carries their loved ones out of the tomb in a line, crying but happy.
When all the bodies are out, they are put on the ground on the front side of the
tomb,theheadfacingeast,withtheirimmediate familyseatedaroundtheirlovedone.
This is a very important moment of the famadihana : the wrapping of the body. The
old shroud in which the body was buried is left on and the new silk shroud put on top,
following the mummified shape and using baby safety pins to keep it in place. There
are three new silk shrouds for my mother which have been donated in remembrance
and gratitude. The belief is that she won't be cold and the top shroud befits her, being
of top quality silk with beautiful, delicate embroidery. This is the time to touch her,
 
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