The West - Madagascar - page 664

on the southwest coast and on a calm morning the fleet of outrigger canoes sailing out to
fish at dawn is a magical sight.'
There are wonderful beaches as well as a rugged and striking arid landscape. And 3km
fromAndavadoakaaremagnificent,stuntedGrandidier'sbaobabswhichattractenthusiasts
from all over the world.
Ampasilava is 5km south of Andavadoaka.
Getting there Ask around in Morombe to find a vehicle heading south. Hotel Baobab can
sometimes assist, as the same family owns Coco Beach in Andavadoaka. The journey by
road takes around two hours, or five hours by pirogue.
Where to stay and eat
Laguna Blu Resort Ampasilava; e [e-mail] ;
www.lagunabluresort.com . Classy, expensive Italian-owned bungalows. Extremely comfy
with hot running water. Transfers by 4x4 from Toliara (8hrs) or Morombe. Dive centre.
Manga Lodge [phone] (satellite phone; only on Sun/Tue/Thu
11.00-12.00). Just round the bay from Andavadoaka. Beachfront bungalows; beautiful
view but quite isolated. Food excellent & copious. €€€
Coco Beach Charming Malagasy-owned rustic beach bungalows in a gorgeous set-
ting. Book through the hotel Baobab in Morombe, or through Blue Ventures which is
based here. €
Chez Antoine Very clean, multicoloured bungalows at the upper end of Andavad-
oaka. Some have en-suite shower (but shared toilets); others share bucket showers. €
MIANDRIVAZO
Said to be the hottest place in Madagascar, the town lies on the banks of the Mahajilo, a
tributaryoftheTsiribihina,andisthestartingpointforthedescentofthatriver.Supposedly
the name comes from when King Radama was waiting for his messenger to return with
Rasalimo, the Sakalava princess of Malaimbandy with whom he had fallen in love. He fell
into a pensive mood and, when asked if he was well, replied ' Miandry vazo aho ' ('I am
waiting for a wife').
Gettingthere It's a ten-hour journey from Morondava by car or taxi-brousse , with one in-
famously bad stretch of road between Miandrivazo and Malaimbandy. The first 48km out