The West - Madagascar - page 646

The princess, now 70, told us she was a direct descendant of King Toera, who
fought the French in the war of independence, and chose death rather than surrender.
The French agreed to educate his ten-year-old son who later became King Kamamy,
governorofMenabeandthefatheroftheprincesssittingwithmeinthathot,darkbar.
'But there are descendants all over the world.'
BELO-SUR-TSIRIBIHINA
Where else can you find a royal family serving beer in a bar (see box opposite)? Belo is a
pleasant town with several good restaurants and a lively Friday market. It is a natural stop-
ping place en route to Bekopaka, and is also the finishing point for trips down the River
Tsiribihina (see Click Here ) , so sees quite a few visitors. Tsiribihina means 'where one
must not dive' - supposedly because of crocodiles!
GETTING THERE Besides getting here by boat down the River Tsiribihina, Belo is ac-
cessible by road. Arriving from the north you have to cross the river by ferry to get to the
taxi-brousse station for Morondava (30 minutes/8,000Ar).
There is also an airstrip serving twice-weekly Air Mad flights and charter planes.
WHERE TO STAY AND EAT
Menabe m 032 42 635 35/032 42 824 10. Opposite the Mad Zebu restaurant, this is
the best hotel in town. €
Suzanna, Tsiribihy & Hanida all have basic cheap rooms. €
Mad Zebu m 032 40 387 15/032 07 589 55. Despite its rather surprising name, this is
the best restaurant in Belo. Excellent food served on a breezy patio.
Pacifique Nr the market. Good food, especially the crevettes .