The West - Madagascar - page 642

TSINGY DE BEMARAHA NATIONAL PARK
( 22 013 96; e [e-mail] or [e-mail] ; www.tsingy-madagas-
car.com ) Protecting Madagascar's largest area of tsingy , this national park is one of the
wonders of Madagascar and has rightly been recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage
Site. The scenery rivals anything in the country and it's a treasure trove for botanists. At
152,000ha it is also one of Madagascar's largest protected areas.
Theawe-inspiring greyforestofrockpinnacles ismatched bythecarewithwhichwalk-
ways have been constructed to allow visitors to see this place in safety. Steps, boardwalks,
steel ladders, cable ropes, and suspension bridges form a pathway allowing tourists to ex-
plore the tsingy in safety.
Amidallthisgreyaresplashesofgreenfromthepachypodiumsandotherstrangesuccu-
lents (see boxopposite) which findfootholds inthecrevices. Andthere'splenty ofwildlife
too,includingDecken'ssifakas,red-frontedbrownlemurs,chameleonsandcollarediguan-
ids.
TheRiverManambolomarksthesouthernborderofthepark,cuttingaspectaculargorge
through the limestone. The main point of access is at Bekopaka on the north bank of the
river. Here is the park entrance to the Petit Tsingy and the park office.
WHEN TO GO Access is currently impossible in the rainy season so you need to plan a
visit between April/May and November/December. The heat can be oppressive from Octo-
ber to December; the best months are June and July, which are also good for river travel
since the water is higher (but these are the least interesting months to see Kirindy, which is
usually part of the package - you can't win!)
GETTING THERE By 4x4 Bekopaka is ten hours/187km from Morondava. Reaching
Bekopaka by public transport is difficult, even in the dry season. Most of the hotels and
campsites can provide the necessary transport to get to the trailheads. However, if you can
afford it this is one place where it really does make sense to splash out on a car and driver
from Morondava. But you will need a good vehicle; these are rough roads and stories of
breakdowns abound. Most of the better hotels in Morondava organise tours to Bemaraha.
You can also access the park from the north via Antsalova, served by Twin Otter, or
down the River Manambolo.
WHERE TO STAY