Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Here ) . Other types of boats sometimes also make the trip, taking six to 12 hours. It is fady
to take peanuts on this journey.
BAIE DE BALY NATIONAL PARK
( m 033 11 968 89; e bbnrk.parks@gmail.com ) This relatively new national park is across
the bay from Soalala, occupying the better part of the northwest peninsula and extending
east across the bay to Cap Sada. It protects a variety of terrestrial and aquatic ecosystems:
mangrove forests, coastal dunes, rivers, permanent lakes and dense dry semi-deciduous
forests. The idyllic coastal villages surrounding the park offer visitors a glimpse into the
Sakalava way of life. Bemosary, Maroalika and b>Batainomby feature the most attract-
ive white-sand beaches on the peninsula. Camping is permitted, but there are no facilities.
MAHAJANGA TO MORONDAVA BY BOUTRE
Marko Petrovic
I and two Slovenian girls caught the taxi-be de mer from the sailing port in Ma-
hajanga. It wasn't hard to find one going to Morondava and we quickly settled on a
price of 60,000Ar each. These sailing ships which transport goods (and people) up
and down the west coast vary in size but ours was average: 15m with two masts and
a 30-tonne capacity. The boats have no motor, so departure is timed to coincide with
the outgoing high tide. We left in the evening and at 02.00 the sailors hoisted the sails
and a strong wind blew us southwards. Everybody except the helmsman (nine sailors
and 15 paying passengers) slept on the deck.
The first day the wind was strong and the big waves made us sick. The boat sailed
far from the coast which at times was barely visible. The sailors have nothing to help
them navigate - not even a compass - yet at every moment they know where they are
relative to the coast. At night they use the stars for navigation.
The second day there was neither wind nor waves and, with no shade, the heat was
terrible. We took plenty of water with us and shared the rice which the other people
cooked. With seasickness our appetites receded and we ate little, which wasn't a bad
thing as there was no toilet on board. We stood in a queue in the bow...
Once some sharks paid us a visit and circled the boat. Somebody threw them some
food which disappeared frighteningly quickly. Later we were approached by a motor-
boat with four dead turtles. One was transferred to our boat and a sailor immediately
set about cutting up the beautiful animal. Pieces of fat from the carcass were hung up
 
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