The West - Madagascar - page 631

PROJET ANGONOKA Ankarafantsika is also home to the Angonoka Tortoise Pro-
gramme operated by the Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust (see box on Click Here ). This
is one of Madagascar's most successful captive breeding projects. After many years of re-
search,ploughshares-theworld'sraresttortoises-arenowbreedingreadilyandarebeing
reintroduced to their original habitat. Almost as rare, the attractive little flat-tailed tortoise
( kapidolo ) is also being bred here, as is the Madagascar big-headed/side-necked turtle.
The site is fortified as a result of thefts, so it is possible for tourists to glimpse them only
through a chain-link fence.
FLY-IN BEACH RESORTS NORTHEAST OF MAHAJANGA
If you look on a map of Madagascar, you'll see a glorious expanse of nothingness along
the indented coastline between Mahajanga and Nosy Be. This is where three entrepreneurs
have established fly-in resorts which come (in my opinion) as close to perfection as you
could hope for.
LODGE DES TERRES BLANCHES ( m 032 05 151 55; e lodgeterresb-
[e-mail] ; www.lodgeterresblanches.com ; ) About 100km from Mahajanga
and 25km south of Anjajavy. This lodge really does qualify for the cliché 'best kept secret'
(at least from English-speaking tourists) since it sees far fewer visitors than Anjajavy or
Marovasa-Be (see below) and no tour groups. Access is by light aircraft or boat.
There is quite simple, but comfortable, accommodation in six double bungalows next
to a gorgeous white beach fringed with forest. Compared with the luxury lodges this is a
simple, do-it-yourself resort. Guests eat together in the lodge, and there is a bar with fridge
forgueststohelpthemselves.Electricityisbygenerator.Ifyouwanttogoonalongerhike,
or to be dropped off in a cove somewhere for the day, picnics can be arranged.
Thisisapopularresortforsport-fishermen,andthetwoboatsarelargelyusedforfishing
trips. However, you can arrange to be taken to some beautiful coves along the coast, or to
baobab-arrayed islands, or to an area of tsingy . See the ad on Click Here .
LA MAISON DE MAROVASA-BE ( [phone] in France;
e [e-mail] ; www.marovasabe.com ; ) Located some 15-20km north of
Anjajavy in Moramba Bay this lodge is accessible by light aircraft from Mahajanga (45
minutes) or Tana (2 hours). There are three suites and six luxury rooms, all with en-suite
bathrooms and balconies.