Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Anjohibe Caves and beyond
Anjohibe means 'big cave' so this name is common in the
region. The famous Grottes d'Anjohibe are 82km northeast of Mahajanga and accessible
onlyby4x4,andonlyinthedryseason.Therearetwoplaces tovisit: thecavesthemselves
andanaturalswimmingpoolabovetheMahafaninawaterfalls.Thecavesarefullofstalac-
tites and stalagmites (and bats), and have several kilometres of passages. Dan Carlsson ex-
cavated them in 1996: 'It seems as though the caves have been used for normal living but
also as a place of sacrifice. We found pottery with ash, charcoal and animal bones; also
several hippopotamus bones believed to be some million years old.'
To reach the caves turn left at Antanamarina and continue for 5km. It takes about four
hours from Mahajanga. Don't forget to take a torch.
John and Valerie Middleton add: 'Two thirds of the way to the caves the river Mariarano
is crossed next to the small village of Posima. The area is very beautiful with many cone-
shaped hills often with caves, most with large passageways and beautiful formations.'
ANKARAFANTSIKA NATIONAL PARK
(
62 780 00;
e
ankarafantsika@gmail.com
) This is a super national park; it's easy to get
to, thrilling to visit with abundant wildlife, and with clear, level or stepped paths which
make hikingapleasure. Withaccommodation nowavailable nexttothepark,thisisamust
for naturalists.
Ankarafantsika straddles RN4 about 120km from Mahajanga. The most-visited part of
thereserveisonthesouthernsideoftheroad,withLacRavelobetothenorth-butthepark
coversover130,000hastretchingallthewaynorthtotheMahajambariver.ThenameAnk-
arafantsika comes from the word
garafantsy
, which means either 'hill of thorns' or 'nail in
the skull'.
GETTING THERE AND AWAY
It takes two hours by road from Mahajanga, and if you
are in a private vehicle it is worth stopping at Lac Amboromalandy, a reservoir which is a
great place to see waterfowl. Note the excellent examples of Sakalava tombs near PK 16,
onyourleftasyou'redrivingtoAnkarafantsika.TheparkisatPK114.ComingfromTana,
it takes about eight hours by
taxi-brousse
.
The park has a minibus available for airport transfers (45,000Ar/person; four people
minimum).
WHERE TO STAY AND EAT
The
Gîte d'Ampijoroa
has mid-range accom-
modation right at the entrance. Book directly with the park (contact details above). The six
