The West - Madagascar - page 615

ively divided into two sections: the north, with its gateway town of Mahajanga, and the
south with Morondava providing access. No roads directly link these two regions - the
traveller is obliged to return to Tana or face the uncomfortable but adventurous journey by
boutre (cargo boat). Otherwise you can fly: Air Mad Twin Otter services connect a dozen
towns throughout the region (see map on Click Here ) . There are also daily flights from
Tana to Mahajanga and Morondava.
The lack of roads and agreeable climate makes this the ideal area for mountain bikers
and walkers. Adventurous travellers will have no trouble finding a warm welcome in un-
touristed villages, their own deserted beach and some spectacular landscapes. This is the
region in which to see one of Madagascar's extraordinary natural wonders: the tsingy . Pro-
nounced zing , this is exactly the sound made when one of the limestone pinnacles is struck
(theycanbeplayedlikeaxylophone!).Itisalsoawordfor'sharp'inMalagasy.Limestone
karst is not unique to Madagascar, but it is rare to see such dramatic forms, such an impen-
etrable forest of spikes and spires. The endemic succulents that struggle for a foothold in
this waterless environment add to the otherworldly feeling. Three national parks showcase
tsingy .
Opposite major rivers the sea water along the west coast is a brick-red colour: 'like
swimming in soup' as one traveller put it. This is the laterite washed into the rivers from
the eroded hillsides of the highlands and discharged into the sea: Madagascar's bleeding
wounds.
HISTORY
The west is the home of the Sakalava people. For a while in Malagasy history this was
the largest and most powerful tribe, ruled by their own kings and queens. The Sakalava
kingdom was founded by the Volamena branch of the Maroserana dynasty which emerged
in the southwest during the 16th century. Early in the 17th century a Volamena prince,
Andriamisara, reached the Sakalava River and gave its name to his new kingdom. His son,
Andriandahifotsy (which means 'white man'), succeeded him around 1650 and, with the
aid of firearms acquired from European traders, conquered the southwestern area between
theOnilahy andManambolo rivers.Thisregionbecame knownastheMenabe. Later kings
conquered first the Boina, the area from the Manambolo to north of present-day Ma-
hajanga, and then the northwest coast as far as Antsiranana.
DISTANCES IN KILOMETRES
Antananarivo-Ankarafantsika 453km