The North - Madagascar - page 567

But we would be lying if we said Ankarana wasn't one of our most fantastic ex-
periences during the whole six-month trip. All of its downsides combined don't even
come close to equalling the positives; it is a magical place of stunning landscapes and
fascinating creatures.
Visitors must not be put off by our experiences. We later discovered that December
can be one of the most difficult times to visit this reserve.
The usual alternative campsite is Campement d'Andrafiabe (Camp des Américains),
which is handy for the Andrafiabe Cave. It has a water supply and toilets, but can get
crowded.
An increasingly popular camp is Camp des Princes, which has long-drop toilets and
picnictables.Waterisaproblem:it'shardtogetinthedryseasonsoyouneedtobringyour
own. There is a bat cave nearby and some small tsingy about half an hour's walk away, but
to reach the main tsingy you must walk a 32km round-trip.
CampAmposatelo is about two hours from Campement Anilotra and is a good base for
visiting Lac Vert and some of the best tsingy .
WARNING! IfyouaregoingtohappenuponascorpionanywhereinMadagascar,it
is likely to be at Ankarana. Be cautious and check carefully inside pockets, bags and shoes
to avoid a very nasty sting.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Tsingy andlake Althoughfoundinothercountries, tsingy isverymuchaMadagascarphe-
nomenon and you won't want to leave Ankarana without seeing it. If staying at Anilotra
Camp, the best tsingy is about two hours away, over very rugged terrain, just beyond the
beautiful crater lake, Lac Vert . This is a very hot, all-day trip (start early and take plenty
of water) and is absolutely magnificent. Board walks have been constructed to allow safe
passageoverthe tsingy ,protectingthefragilerockwhileyouadmirethestrangesucculents
such as pachypodiums which seem to grow right out of the limestone.
Lac Vert is as green as its name, and if you are crazy enough you can hike down a
steep, slippery slope to the water's edge. An easier alternative is the Petit Tsingy which
is found just 15 minutes from the campsite. Although smaller, there are similar plants and
also lemurs.
Caves From Andrafiabe Camp you can explore the gigantic passageways of Andrafiabe
Cave . This is well worth a visit with an exit halfway through into one of the spectacular
canyons from where an interesting return can be made.