Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
FourdifferentspeciesofvanillaorchidoccurnaturallyinMadagascar,mostofthem
totally leafless. One can be seen on the roadside between Sambava and Antalaha re-
semblinglengthsofred-greentubingfestoonedoverthescrub.Anotherisfoundinthe
spiny forest near Berenty. Most of the native species contain sap that burns the skin
and their fruits contain too little vanillin to make cultivation economic.
Although conventionally used for cooking, vanilla is also an insect repellent, and
the wonderful-smelling pods can be put in drawers to scent clothing or linen.
Whencookingyoucanreusethepodsforaslongasyouremembertoretrievethem
- wash and dry them after each use. Vanilla does wonders for tea or coffee (just add a
pod to the teapot or coffee filter, or grind a dried pod with the coffee beans) and can
beboiled with milk tomake ayummy hotdrink(addadashofbrandy)orcustard. Put
some beans in your sugar tin and the flavour will be absorbed. Vanilla adds a subtle
flavour to chicken or duck, rice or... whatever you fancy.
This is one of the main vanilla-producing areas of Madagascar and a tour of the Lopat
vanilla factory will open your eyes to the laborious process of preparing one of the coun-
try's main exports.
North of Sambava is a beautiful beach with safe swimming.
Excursions furtherafield
Many of the hotels can organise excursions, as can the tour op-
erator
Sambava Voyages
(
88 921 10
).
River Bemarivo
Apleasantdo-it-yourselfexcursionisuptheBemarivo(notpossibleatthe
end of the dry season). Take a
taxi-brousse
to Nosiarina on the road north and look for a
pirogue to take you on the five-hour journey upriver to Amboahangibe. It's a relaxing and
picturesque trip.
It is also possible to find a cargo boat to Amboahangibe. This is quite a large village
with several grocery stores and places to stay (look for the sign '
misy chambres
' - 'rooms
available') which fill upwith vanilla-pickers during the harvest. As an alternative to taking
a boat back, it is a pleasant hike along the river, with some interesting tombs.
CONTINUING NORTH
Two hours further up the good road is the next town of import-
ance, Iharana (Vohemar) - see
Chapter 14
,
Click Here
.
ANDAPA AND AREA
