Toamasina and the Northeast - Madagascar - page 493

Maroantsetrawithsufficientlocalcurrency.Ifyou'reinarushorthebankisclosed,there's
a nearby shopkeeper who changes dollars and euros, but his rate is usually a little worse
than the bank's. The post office has a Western Union service.
Internet has finally arrived here and there are at least four places to get online, mostly
clustered just north of the bank. The price is usually 100Ar/minute.
Shopping There are two markets: the central one is smaller than the new market on the
main road 600m north of Pagode.
Dounia is a well-stocked supermarket with items suitable for taking as provisions on
camping trips such as tinned food and cartons of drinks.
Tour operators Here, more than anywhere else in Madagascar, you need the services of
a local tour operator to secure a boat to Nosy Mangabe or Masoala, as well as other ex-
cursions which are difficult to do on your own. The National Parks office is near the post
office.
Maroa Tour m 033 12 057 19/032 43 482 09; e [e-mail] ;
www.maroatours.com . Run by the indefatigable Rakotovazaha, a guide who seems to be
able to organise just about anything in the region including treks & forest visits. With
boundless energy he exists in a perpetual whirlwind of arranging & planning. Rakoto
speaks English & will organise a complete package (boats, guides, permits, accommoda-
tion etc) according to your budget & needs. He has also started hiring out camping equip-
ment & bikes. You'll often find him at the airport when flights arrive or at Coco Beach.
Explorer Madagascar (at Tampolodge office) 57 721 49; m 033 14 471 20. Trips to
Masoala & Nosy Mangabe, boat hire, trekking, whale-watching & bird-watching.
Adrien Bemirhary 57 721 42; m 032 02 039 10. Speedboat owner. He is a tough nego-
tiator. Best to form a group before meeting him.
Relais de Masoala (see Where to stay ) The hotel has been organising trips to Masoala &
other hard-to-reach places longer than anyone. Not cheap, but you can be assured of the
quality of the equipment.
Paul Harimala Clememt 53 339 12; m 033 02 259 43; f 53 313 50;
e [e-mail] . An experienced guide who organises tours that allow tourists to ex-
perience & contribute to social aspects of the region.
LOCAL EXCURSIONS Sil Westra did a full-day tour organised by Rakotovazaha. 'This
wasexcellentandIreallyrecommendit!Youcanseelotsofthingsinashorttime.Youcan
see kingfishers and Parson's chameleons on the banks of the river while you try to balance
yourself inside the ever-unstable pirogue. You can taste local sugar cane wine betsabetsa
in a traditional small village where you will constantly be surrounded by curious children.