South of Toamasina - Madagascar - page 460

office (the yellow building on the hill as you enter town) to arrange permits and a guide
(see Click Here for permit prices).
FROM VANGAINDRANO TO TAOLAGNARO (FORT DAUPHIN) The road to
Taolagnaroisterribleandmuchofthe230kmrequiresa4x4.Thejourneyinvolvesnofew-
er than ten river crossings. If you're lucky and none of the ferries stationed at the crossing
points is broken down, then in a good vehicle and good weather the trip can be achieved
in one long day. However, most vehicles make the journey over two days, overnighting at
Manantenina just after the fifth river crossing. The best hotel there is Chez Mme Pety ,
with eight simple bungalows.
The first of the river crossings is 32km south of Vangaindrano. It is fady to wear red or
gold (including jewellery) on this crossing. All the ferries are free and operate from dawn
till 18.00. A tip of 2,000Ar or so per vehicle is usual, but you'll have to pay more if you
want to be taken across after 18.00.
A two-day camion-brousse departs Vangaindrano each Sunday morning ( m 032 62 811
63 ). Delays are common and it's not unknown for travellers to take four or five days to
reach Taolagnaro.