Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
the pre-colonial 19th century. At this time, Vatomandry was a prosperous port and mer-
chandise was carried by porters to the capital along the paths of the eastern forest. This is
also the birthplace of former President Ratsiraka.
Espace Zazah Robert
(
53 821 03;
m
032 02 257 52;
€€-€€€) on the northern out-
skirts offers budget to mid-range accommodation. Some rooms have air conditioning.
MAHANORO
The name means 'happy-making' but whether Mahanoro will have this ef-
fect on all visitors is debatable. The town is to the north of the Mangoro River, so most of
the places of interest are watery (although there is said to be a Merina fortress here). The
impressive Chutes de la Sahatsio are 18km to the north. The best place to stay is
Tropic-
ana's
bungalows (
53 901 33
).
NOSY VARIKA
Nosy Varika means 'lemur island' although you'd be lucky to see any
varika
(brownlemurs)herenow.ThemostinterestingexcursionintheareaistotheChutes
de la Sakaleona, a waterfall which plunges 200m, but this requires an expedition of several
days.
AMBOHITSARA
This isolated village 60km north of Mananjary is only accessible by
boat,yetthereisanupmarkethotelhere.
Auberged'Ambohitsara
(
2226721;
m
03207
267 21
) is a set of pleasant bungalows overlooking the canal, owned and run by German-
born Mme Manambelona who also organises local tours. Apart from the opportunity to re-
lax on and around the Pangalanes, one of Madagascar's most enigmatic sights is here: a
stone elephant. Depending on whose version of the story you believe, the carving is said to
have been brought here from Mecca or Yemen by the ancestors, perhaps 800 years ago.
MANANJARY AND MANAKARA
These two pleasant seaside towns have good communications with the rest of Madagascar
and are gaining popularity among discerning travellers, especially now the railway from
the highlands to the coast has been rehabilitated.
MANANJARY
Thisisarathersleepylittletownwithagoodchoiceofplacestostayanda
couple of banks (BFV and BOA). The weekend fish market held at the river mouth is well
worth a visit. 'The fishermen sell their daily catches from their canoes parked up on the
shore.LikeallmarketsinMadagascar,there'salotofaction.Inadditiontothefish-selling,
theladies washtheirclothes thereandlaythemouttodryonthebeachwhiletheirchildren
play in the water.' (Sheena Jones)
