South of Toamasina - Madagascar - page 449

PALMARIUM RESERVE Alongside the Palmarium hotel this 50ha reserve of littoral
forest protects a wide variety of palms, hence its name. It has broad, well-maintained trails
onflatterrainandsometendifferentspeciesofverytame(andmostlytransplanted)lemurs.
There are also lots of 'orchids, chameleons, frogs, birds, colourful green lynx spiders and
interesting plants including the only endemic Malagasy cactus, which grows as a bizarre
epiphyte, and both the island's species of pitcher plants' (Derek Schuurman).
Entry (including a guided walk) costs 13,000Ar, but is free for guests of the Palmarium
hotel.
VOHIBOLA FOREST This is a project run by MATE (Man And The Environment)
which is being developed for tourism. The forest, which stretches 9km northwards from
Lake Ampitabe, is one of the two largest remaining fragments of littoral forest in Mada-
gascar. 'Among the flora are a number of critically endangered trees, notably Humbertio-
dendron saboureaui , which had not been seen for 50 years and was thought extinct. Sever-
al dozen mature trees were found, so the species was effectively rediscovered. It exists
nowhereelse'(DerekSchuurman).Vohibolahasanextensivetreenurseryandtouristshave
the hands-on opportunity to give something back by planting an indigenous tree as part of
the reforestation programme.
There are two interesting and contrasting circuits, the Discovery Trail and the Wetlands
Trail, and with other activities planned this is a super place for independent travellers.
THE WATER HIGHWAY OF THE EAST COAST
Colin Palmer
The Canal des Pangalanes was created in colonial times to provide a safe means of
transport along the east coast. The shore is surf-beaten and the few harbours are shal-
low and dangerous. The inland water passage provided a safe alternative and around
the turn of the century regular ferry services were in operation. The canal intercon-
nected the natural rivers and lagoons, where necessary cutting through the low-lying
coastal plain. At intervals it crosses rivers which flow to the sea, providing access for
fishermen and ensuring that the level is stable.
The waterways fell into disuse, butinthe 1980sagrandproject torehabilitate them
was carried out. Silted canals were dredged, new warehouses built and a fleet of mod-
ern tug barge units purchased to operate a cargo service. That may once have worked,
but now the warehouses and quaysides are empty and the tug barge units lie in a
jumble in the harbour at Toamasina.