The South - Madagascar - page 377

hillsides. The many ring-tailed lemurs may also keep you awake at night with their con-
tinuous screaming! From the head of the valley a local guide, again with the good grace of
the président , can take you on a 7km trip onto the plateau to visit the chasm of Ankikiky
Velo. This is well worth the effort and measures around 80m diameter and 60m deep. A
further 15 minutes away is the new village of Ankikimaty where another cave of impress-
ive dimensions can be descended to nearly 90m in an enormous passage. The forest now
remains good only at the edge of the plateau and on the steep riverside slopes.
'Continuing upriver from Tolikisy the scenery becomes quite dramatic until, about 2km
before Ifanato, a crystal-clear stream gushes beneath the road. There is a place to park here
andbyfollowingthefootpathontheleftfor50masuperbflatcampsitecanbefoundabove
the first of the “Seven Lakes”. These beautiful blue lakes are connected by yellow to or-
ange tufa (a form of calcite) cascades and waterfalls extending for over 700m. Apart from
the first lake upon which there is a fady , swimming can be done in most of them. The sur-
rounding gallery forest is superb. It is possible to follow a zebu trail into the mountains
where there is yet another vertical shaft known as Ankikiky Lava. Ifanato, 2km further on,
has a couple of reasonable restaurants including one run by a Frenchman, but to follow the
road further into Tongobory is extremely difficult.'
STAUGUSTINE'SBAY This large bay some 15km southeast ofToliara is an area ofhis-
tory and natural wonders, including dramatic sand dunes and a cave swimming pool. The
bay, which was mentioned by Daniel Defoe in The King of Pirates , was the site of an ill-
fated British colony, abandoned in 1646, and later frequented by pirates.
Getting there The hotels in the region will arrange transfers from Toliara, but there is a
daily taxi-brousse to Sarodrano (3,000Ar) on a sandy spit at the southern end of the bay.
The village of St Augustin lies about 5km beyond, at the Onilahy river mouth.
Where to stay
Mangrove (II rooms) 94 936 26; e [e-mail] ; www.hotelsud-
tulear.com . Located 8km from RN7 (the turn-off is signposted). Same ownership as Chez
Alain in Toliara. Rocky shore; no beach. Diving, fishing & boat excursions to Nosy Ve &
Anakao. €€€
Chez Andréa (10 rooms) m 032 02 258 43. Italian-owned beach bungalows near Sar-
odrano. Thoughtfully designed, very friendly, excellent food & service. €€€
Melody Beach (15 bungalows) m 032 02 167 57; e [e-mail] . Overlooking
a sandy beach in the middle of the bay with good swimming. Just 5km from RN7 so easily
accessible. A
Longo Mamy m 032 04 344 64. Nice but basic bungalows in St Augustin village.