Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
About two hours from Sakaraha is the small village of
Andranovory,
which has a col-
ourful Sunday market. Another hour and Toliara's table mountain comes into view on the
right; half an hour later you pass the airport and head for the town.
TOLIARA (TULEAR) (PK 945)
The pronunciation of the French (Tulear) and the Malagasy names is the same: 'toolee
ar
'.
Toliara's history is centred on St Augustine's Bay, described at the beginning of this
chapter,althoughthenameofthetownissaidtoderivefromanencounterwithoneofthose
early sailors who asked a local inhabitant where he might moor his boat. The Malagasy
replied: '
toly eroa
' ('mooring down there'). The town itself is relatively modern - 1895 -
and was designed by an uninspired French architect. His tree planting was more success-
fully aesthetic, and the shady tamarind trees (
kily
) give welcome respite from the blazing
sun.
There are three good reasons to visit Toliara: the rich marine life with good snorkelling
anddiving,theMahafalyandMasikorotombswithamuseumthatputsitallincontext,and
the remarkable spiny forest and its accompanying fauna. Don't miss a visit to the Arbor-
etum d'Antsokay and/or the Reniala Forest. These two privately run places can give you
an experience as good as many national parks, at a fraction of the cost.
The beaches south of the town have fine white sand, but those in the north are often
rocky. Beyond the beaches is an extensive coral reef, sadly now suffering from coral
bleachingsonolongerparticularlyrewardingforsnorkellers.Toliaraitself,regrettably,has
no beach, just mangroves and mud flats.
WARNINGS!
In the cool season (June to September) the nights in Toliara are quite
cold but cheaper hotels rarely supply enough blankets. Businesses close 12.00-15.00;
banks are usually closed 11.30-14.00. There have been a few muggings after dark so take
a taxi if going out late.
GETTING THERE AND AWAY
Byroad
Taxi-brousses
run regularly on RN7, and cost 45,000Ar to Tana (about 18 hours),
30,000Ar to Fianar (10 hours), 20,000Ar to Ranohira/Isalo (4½ hours) and 7,000Ar to
Sakaraha/Zombitse (2 hours).
KoFiFiVo
operates daily services on the more adventurous
route to Taolagnaro in a
camion-brousse:
36,000Ar to Taolagnaro (2 days), 30,000Ar to
Tsihombe, 20,000Ar to Ampanihy and 13,000Ar to Betioky. To take the same route at a
