Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
beyond anyone's wildest dreams. The richest Malagasies in the business seem not to
be digging but instead are the ones providing security for the foreign buyers.
The jewellery industry worldwide is trying to rebalance the distribution of money
so that countries with a natural abundance of gemstones, and the indigenous miners
of those riches, will get a better deal. The Kimberly Process is working well for the
diamond industry and something might emerge from that for the coloured stone trade.
In the meantime, if you are thinking of buying loose gemstones, remember that spe-
cialists and big business will have creamed the top off the supply. Buy something you
fallinlovewith-there'splentytochoosefrom-butdon'texpecttogetrichquickby
selling it when you get home.
CONTINUING SOUTH TO TOLIARA
The drive from Isalo to Toliara (243km) takes a minimum of four hours. The sapphire rush
is moving south and you will pass the temporary grass huts and piles of earth dug by for-
tune seekers for many kilometres.
AfterIlakakatheruggedmountainsgivewaytograsslands,andfollowingtherainsthere
are many flowers - the large white Crinum firmifolium and the Madagascar periwinkle -
but in the dry season it's quite monotonous.
ZOMBITSE-VOHIBASIA NATIONAL PARK (PK 795) ( e angaptle@gmail.com ;
07.00-16.00 ) Zombitse is a stark example of the effects of deforestation. Years of continu-
ous felling have turned the surrounding areas into an arid moonscape and what remains is
an isolated pocket of forest, thankfully now protected. The park covers 36,300ha, strad-
dling RN7. It is an important example of a boundary zone between the western and south-
ern domains of vegetation and so has a high level of biodiversity.
Zombitse is of major significance to birdwatchers as it offers the chance to glimpse one
ofMadagascar'srarestendemics,Appert'sgreenbul,whichisconfinedtothisforest.Inad-
dition to birds you have a good chance of seeing sifaka, redfronted brown lemurs, and the
nocturnal sportive lemur peering out of its nest hole. The locally endemic Standing's day
gecko is also easily found.
The park office is on the southern side of RN7. There are four easy circuits (each
1.5-5km/1-2½ hours) costing 3,000Ar for the guide per circuit.
IttakesjustoveranhourtoreachtheparkfromIsalo,ortwotothreehoursfromToliara,
so serious birdwatchers should leave as early as possible in the morning to avoid the heat.
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