Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Canyon des Makis This is 18km by track from Ranohira (4x4 only) or 9km on foot. At
the canyon a path goes over rocks and along the edge of the tumbling river; there are pools
into which you can fling yourself at intervals and, at the top, a small waterfall under which
to have a shower. The sheer rocks hung with luxuriant ferns broaden out to provide views
of the bare mountain behind, and trees and palms provide shade for a picnic. A visit may
be combined with the neighbouring Canyon des Rats for a full-day trip.
Piscine Naturelle (natural swimming pool) This is justifiably the most popular destina-
tion for hikers in Isalo, so can be crowded. The palm-fringed pool, constantly filled by a
waterfall, is both stunningly beautiful and wonderful for swimming. There is also an open-
sided shelter where Benson's rock thrushes flirt with bathers. The nearby campsite has a
flush toilet, shower and barbecue stoves.
La Fenêtre This is another popular site - perhaps too popular at times. A natural rock
formationprovidesawindowtothesettingsun.ItisjustoffRN7sonohikingisnecessary,
nor do you need a permit or guide. A taxi from Ranohira should cost about 30,000Ar for
the round trip.
GrottedesPortugais Some 45km from Ranohira at the northern extremity of the national
park,this 32-metre-long cave is reachable by4x4orfourtosix days' trekking. This pictur-
esque area is the place to head for to get away from other tourists.
BEYONDTHEPARK Those with a 4x4 can explore some of the dirt roads bordering the
park. Wendy Applequist 'got a guide from Ranohira and went up a dirt road west of the
park towards the valley of the Malio River. In a small forest patch we rediscovered a li-
anapreviouslyknownfromonlytwo50-year-oldcollections.Thisisaninterestingpieceof
forest.Whenyouhitsandyouhavetoparkandwalkthroughdense,liana-filledjunglewith
gigantic butterflies flitting through the gloom. Our guide told us that when he was a boy,
they used to roast and eat the huge spiders that spin webs across the trail to catch vazaha .
“But that was when I was a boy,” he said while I was gagging. “I wouldn't do that now, of
course - because they're endemic!” I thought this was a young man who had a real future
in science!'
ILAKAKA (PK 729)
This extraordinary settlement has sprung up over the past decade or so as the centre of the
sapphire trade. Tour buses drive straight through with the windows up for fear of bandits,
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