Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Continuing south, the scenery becomes increasingly spectacular. You pass remnants of
the western limit of the rainforest (being systematically destroyed). The road runs up and
down steep hills, past neat Betsileo rice paddies interspersed with eucalyptus and pine
groves. The steepest climb comes about two hours after Ambositra, when the vehicle la-
bours up an endlessly curving road, through thick forests of introduced pine, and reaches
the top where stalls selling fruit or baskets provide an excuse for a break. Just after
Am-
batofitorahana,
forafewkilometresafterPK302,youwillseestallsalongtheroadselling
carved kitchenware. Half an hour further on, for a couple of kilometres either side of PK
340, the road is lined with sellers of delicious eucalyptus honey for much of the year.
Then it's down to
Ambohimahasoa,
where good snacks are served at
Nirina
and basic
rooms may be found at
Mimosa
(
m
033 04 236 43
). Beyond this, you pass more remnants
of forests, then open country, rice paddies and houses as you begin the approach to Fi-
anarantsoa.
RICE
Hilary Bradt
The Malagasy have always had an almost mystical attachment to rice. King Andri-
anampoinimerina declared: 'Rice and I are one,' and loyalty to the Merina king was
symbolised by industry in the rice paddies.
Today the Betsileo are masters of rice cultivation (they manage three harvests a
year, rather than the normal two) and their neat terraces are a distinctive part of the
scenery of the central highlands. However, rice is grown throughout the island, either
in irrigated paddies or as 'hill rice' watered by the rain. Rice production is labour-in-
tensive. First the ground must be prepared for the seeds. Often this is done by chasing
zebu cattle round and round to break and soften the clods - a muddy, sticky job, but
evidently great fun for the boys who do it. Seeds are germinated in a small plot and
replanted in the irrigated paddies when half grown. In October and November you
will see groups of women bent over in knee-deep water, performing this back-break-
ing work.
The Malagasy eat rice three times a day, the average annual consumption being
135kg per capita - the highest of any nation in the world - although this is declining
because of the availability of other foods and reduced productivity. Rice marketing
was nationalised in 1976, but this resulted in such a dramatic drop in the amount of
rice reaching the open market that restrictions were lifted in 1984. By that time it was
too late to reverse the decline, which was mainly due to the decay of irrigation works.
Despite a steady increase in acreage at the expense of the precious forest, production
continues to fall.
