Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
'Just north of Ambato (5km on a dirt road) are some wonderful hot springs. Buildings
put up by the French have fallen into disrepair and now look like Roman ruins, lending the
place a charming sense of disorientation. Go in the early morning, when the air is cool and
the water is clean. Ask anybody in town how to get to the ranomafana. '
There is one tourist hotel in Ambato: Hôtel du Marbre . The rooms are nice and the
hotel has a garden full of native plants.
ZAFIMANIRY VILLAGES For the past few years I have downplayed the attractions of
theZafimaniryregionfollowingreportsinthe1990sofseveredeforestation,butthiswood-
carving region is now benefiting from controlled ecotourism. However, persistent begging
hasbecomeaproblem.Befirmandresist,asgivinginonlyexacerbatestheissue.Thecom-
munitycharge(acompulsoryfeeof3,000Arpayabletothemayorofeachvillageyouvisit)
is a much fairer way of giving to the villagers.
Taxi-brousses only run on Wednesdays (market day), otherwise you will need to find
private transport to get here.
Antoetra This is no longer a typical Zafimaniry village, but nevertheless is worth a visit
forthechance toseewoodcarvers atworkandtobuytheircrafts.Frenchisspoken,butnot
English.
Basicdormaccommodationmaybefoundhereat Papavelo, wherecampingispermitted
and tents can be hired. A better hotel, Sous le Soleil de Mada ( m 033 07 344 14;
e resa.souslesoleildemada@yahoo.fr ; http://souslesoleildemada.monsite-orange.fr ; €€),
has ten Zafimaniry-style bungalows on the road to Ivato.
Trekking circuits Guides may be found in Antoetra or via one of the hotels. They charge
about 20,000Ar per day for tours of villages in the area. Apart from their craft, the Zafi-
maniryareknownfortheiruniquehouses.Thearea'swoodcarvingculture wasproclaimed
a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2003.
Sakaivo Nord, approximately 3½ hours from Antoetra at the foot of a mountain, is one
of the best villages to visit. Closest to Antoetra is Ifasina ('place of dirt'), about 1½ hours
away on foot. Also recommended are Faliarivo (on a hilltop with splendid views), Femp-
ina and Tetezandrotra .
AMBOSITRA TO FIANARANTSOA
About 6km south of Ambositra, near PK 266, is a turning for a cave, signposted Toerana
Masina ('sacred place'). It is 500m west of RN7.
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