The Highlands South of Tana - Madagascar - page 302

Aina Princy Andriambololona m 032 50 806 53/034 08 704 95; e [e-mail] .
Local English-speaking guide.
BICYCLE HIRE [175 C6] Rabemananjara Mamisoa is your man. Find him at the hotel
Green Park ( or m 032 02 176 05; e [e-mail] ) . 'He has a stack of good
bikes which hehires outforareasonable price. Heprovided agoodmap andeven gave me
a puncture repair kit and tools for no extra cost. A lovely bloke!' (Stuart Riddle). Mamisoa
canalsoorganiseexcursionsonfoot,bybikeorbycar,oreventrekkingtripsfurtherafield.
EXCURSIONS FROM ANTSIRABE
Lakes Andraikiba and Tritriva Just 7km west of Antsirabe, Lake Andraikiba is a large
volcanic lake often overlooked in favour of the more spectacular Lake Tritriva . The
scenery here is picturesque and the area very peaceful. Taxi-brousses heading for Betafo
pass close to the lake, or you can go by hired bicycle as a day trip - or longer if you bring
a tent. Alternative accommodation is available at Dera, a mid-range hotel with rooms and
bungalows on the lake shore ( 44 052 42/938 01 ).
LakeTritriva'snamecomesfrom tritry -theMalagasy wordfortheridgeonthebackof
a chameleon(!) - and iva , 'deep'. And this emerald-green crater lake is indeed deep - 80m,
somesay.ItisreachedbycontinuingpastLakeAndraikibafor12kmonarough,steeproad
(4x4 only) past small villages of waving kids. You will notice that these villages are relat-
ively prosperous-looking for Madagascar; they grow the barley for the Star Brewery.
Apart from the sheer beauty of Lake Tritriva (the best light for photography is in the
morning), there are all sorts of interesting features and legends. The water level rises in the
dry season and debris thrown into the lake has reappeared down in the valley, supporting
the theory of underground water channels.
Look across the lake and you'll see two thorn trees with intertwined branches growing
on a ledge above the water. It is said that these are two lovers, forbidden to marry by their
parents,whodrownedthemselvesinLakeTritriva.Whenthebranchesarecut,bloodoozes
out, so they say. You can walk right round the lake for impressive views. There is an en-
trance fee of 2,500Ar.
Betafo About 22km west of Antsirabe, off the tarred road to Morondava, lies Betafo, a
town with typical highlands red-brick churches and houses. Dotted among the houses are
vatolahy , standing stones erected to commemorate warrior chieftains. It is off the normal
tourist circuit, and gives you an excellent insight into the Merina way of life. Monday is
market day. There is no hotel in Betafo but you should be able to find a room by asking
around.
At one end of the town is the crater lake Tatamarina . From there it is a walk of about
3kmtothe Antafofo waterfallsamongbeautifulviewsofricefieldsandvolcanichills.You