Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Andrianampoinimerina. The man had gone into a trance and a group of mediums were as-
sisting him. They had foundan accordion player and the man was dancing to get the king's
attention. We were spellbound by all this, but the Malagasy visitors totally ignored what
was going on and continued to look round the hut as though nothing was happening!'
With British help Andrianampoinimerina's son, Radama, went a long way to achieving
his father's ambition to expand his kingdom to the sea. His wife succeeded him as Queen
Ranavalona. Three more queens followed and, although the capital had by that time been
moved to Antananarivo, they built themselves elegant summerhouses next to Andrianam-
poinimerina's simple royal home. These have been renovated and provide a fascinating
glimpse of the strong British influence during those times, with very European décor and
several gifts sent to the monarchs by Queen Victoria. French influence is evident too:
there are two cannons forged in Jean Laborde's Mantasoa iron foundry. Here also is the
small summerhouse of Prime Minister Rainilaiarivony. Understandably cautious about be-
ingoverheard(hewieldedmorepowerthanthequeenshemarried)hechoseanopendesign
with glazed windows so that spies could be spied first.
Also within the compound is a mundane-looking concrete pool (the concrete is a recent
addition) which was used by the queens for ritual bathing and had to be filled, so they say,
by 70 virgins, and a corral where zebu were sacrificed. An enclosing wall built in 1787,
and faced with a rock-hard mixture of sand and egg, completes the tour.
From a high point above the bath you can get a superb view of the
hauts plateaux
and
Tana in the distance, and on an adjacent hill the white mausoleum of the king's
ombiasy
(witchdoctor).
Ambohimanga is an ideal place for a picnic. There is no longer a restaurant here, al-
though a
hotely
by the car park serves Malagasy food. Visitors with their own transport
could try
Relais du Rova,
situated 5km away at the main turn-off.
LEMURS PARK
(
22 234 36;
m
033 11 728 90;
e
lemurspark@moov.mg
;
www.lemurspark.com
;
09.00-16.30; in Jan-Mar restaurant is closed Mon; entry inc
guide: adults 15,000Ar, under-12s 8,000Ar
) This free-range 'zoo' makes a good day trip,
particularly for those on a quick visit who are not able to see lemurs in the wild. Bordered
by the dramatic River Katsaoka, the 5ha park is divided into areas planted with endemic
flora of Madagascar's different climate zones. Nine species of lemur live free; many are
confiscated pets, and this is the first step towards rehabilitation. Feeding times are 10.00,
12.00, 14.00 and 16.00. A few nocturnal species are kept in rather small cages. The park is
22km west of Tana on RN1, clearly signposted on the right-hand side. A shuttle bus to the
park runs from outside Le Glacier in central Tana at 09.00 and 14.00 daily.
