Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
AnotherhighlyeffectivecharityinTanaisthe
FrèresMissionnairesdelaCharité
(
85 Rue Andriamaromanana, Tsiazotafo
) on the hills above the railway station. This
isaCharityofMotherTheresa.Thebrotherstakecareoforphansandferalstreetkids,
run classes and a hospital, feed handicapped and deprived people and the poor. The
sistersofthisorderarebasedontheoutskirtsofTanawheretheyrunanorphanagefor
about 120 babies and young children up to school age.
DAY EXCURSIONS FROM ANTANANARIVO
AMBOHIMANGA
(
daily 09.00-17.00; entry 7,000Ar
) Lying 21km northeast of
Antananarivo, accessed by RN3, Ambohimanga ('blue hill') was for a long time forbidden
toEuropeans.FromherebeganthelineofkingsandqueenswhoweretouniteMadagascar
into one country, and it was here that they returned for rest and relaxation among the for-
ested slopes of this hill-top village. These days tourists find the same tranquillity and spirit
of reverence and this World Heritage Site is highly recommended as an easy day trip. The
journey takes about 30 minutes on a good road by taxi or
taxi-brousse
.
Ambohimanga has seven gates, though some are all but lost among the thick vegetation.
By the main entrance gate is an enormous stone disc which was formerly rolled in front of
the gateway each night. A few small shops selling drinks and snacks are just inside. Climb
up the stairs to the ceremonial courtyard shaded by two giant fig trees. Ambohimanga still
retains its spiritual significance for the Malagasy people. On the slope to the left of the en-
trance to the compound is a sacrificial stone. Melted candle wax and traces of blood show
thatitisstillusedforofferings,particularlyincasesofinfertility.Ritualsinvolvingthepla-
cingofsevensmallstonesinthe'male'or'female'holewillensurethebirthofababyboy
or girl.
Inside the compound
The centrepiece here is the wooden house of the great king Andri-
anampoinimerina, whoreignedfrom1787to1810.Thissimpleone-roombuildingisinter-
esting for the insight it gives into royal daily life of that era. There is a display of cooking
utensils (and the stones that surrounded the cooking fire), weapons, and the two beds - the
upper one for the king and the lower for one of his 12 wives. The roof is supported by a
10mrosewoodpole.Avisitherecanbefullofsurprises,asAlistairMarshallrecounts:'Re-
memberthisisnotamuseum,itistheking'spalace:heisthere.Onallmyvisitstherewere
always several people asking the king for favours. On one memorable occasion I entered
hishuttofindwhatseemedlikeapartyinfullflow.Amanhadbeenpossessedbythespirit
of a king from the south and he had come to the palace to greet, and be greeted by, King
