Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
and amusing day out. Have plenty of small-denomination notes ready to support the best
performers. There are food stalls with drinks. Any entertainment that allows you to join a
Malagasy audience will be worth the entrance fee.
SHOPPING
Note that bargaining is expected only in markets. It is neither customary nor appropriate to
bargain in shops.
THEHANDICRAFTSMARKETS While traditional Malagasy handicrafts are available
at boutiques across the city, you will find a wider selection and better prices at the
artisan markets. Mostnoteworthy are the embroidery,basketry,woodcarving, minerals and
leatherwork (stiff cowhide, not soft leather). Items made from raffia are common, as is
carved zebu horn, and the unique Antaimoro paper embedded with pressed flowers.
The most centrally located handicrafts market is at Marché Pochart [146 D1], near
Soarano railway station. A second one, accessible from Rue Ramananarivo in Andra-
voahangy [143 D1], has a particularly good selection of carved games, including solitaire,
chess and the traditional Malagasy fanorona (sellers can provide a rule sheet). It is about
30 minutes' walk northeast of the centre. Heading out of the city towards the airport you
cannot miss the roadside Digue market, which also has an impressive range of wares. And
on the east side of Tana in District 67ha is the CENAM market with its 'artisan village'.
There's also a bamboo market near the Carlton hotel.
OTHER MARKETS Most of the handicrafts markets above are parts of larger general
markets,whicharealwaysintriguingtoexplore.YoucannotwalkfarinTanawithoutcom-
ing upon a market - and indeed often the streets in between are filled with illicit street
sellers, their wares laid out on a sheet.
In the centre Marché Pochart, and the Pavillons du Zoma [147 F4] at the other end of
Avenue de l'Indépendance, are both particularly active on Fridays ( zoma is Malagasy for
'Friday'). They sell everything from fruit and veg to chicken heads and frog legs, as well
as non-food items like stationery and clothes. To the west of the station is Petite Vitesse
[146B2],whereyouwillfindasectionsellingmedicinalplants. Mahamasina (marketday
Thursday) hosts another bustling bazaar on the western side of the stadium [143 C5]. And
a colourful flower market is held daily to the south of Lake Anosy [143 B5].
FANORONA : THE NATIONAL GAME
Hilary Bradt
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