Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ingimpressionsofbeautifulcoastlines,anextraordinaryecosystem,improbablefauna
andnear-impossibletransportconditions.Iwasn'tdisappointed!Justasspecialthough
were the warmth and hospitality of the Malagasy people.
I'd landed in Tana with the doubtful benefit of four months' (poorly) self-taught
Frenchandonlythevaguestideaofanitinerary,havingbookedtheflightonawhimto
satisfyalong-standingbutuninformedcuriosityabouttheisland.Inanalmost
vazaha
-
free area I must have been quite a novelty but I learnt a few words of Malagasy and
triedtotakeaninterestineverything-althoughafterattemptingtode-huskricegrains
with a giant (6ft) pestle and mortar, I decided that this was best left to the experts!
Travelling alone is perhaps nobody's ideal but I really wouldn't have missed the
experience for the world, at least in this part of the world; I was constantly touched
by the friendship and companionship extended by local people. My limited linguistic
skills were no bar to laughter and camaraderie in the back of a
camion
, as our lurch-
ing vehicle threw us among the sacks of rice, flour and sugar, the cooking pots and
tomatoes, whilst the beer crates crashed alarmingly on shelves just above our heads...
althoughitwassometimesdifficulttoseeeachotherthroughthedieselfumes!My(all
male) companions onthisjourneywereunfailingly charming, lowering aplankwhich
Iusedtoenterandexitmoreeasilyaswemadethenumerousstopsrequiredtorebuild
bridges and take on/offload people, poultry and produce... and I found this pattern of
courtesy and kindness repeated again and again in so many situations as I progressed
via 4x4s and ferries, pirogues, on foot, by boat and even, briefly, on the back of a mo-
torbike.
I should have at least one cautionary tale to tell of an intimidating experience - but
I haven't! I enjoyed myself far more than I'd anticipated and am left humbled by the
simple humanity of the people who made this possible. I never felt unsafe and while
eatingin
hotelys
orhavingbreadandcoffeefromaroadsidestallwouldgenerallyfind
people willing to chat.
Having said that, it was a relief to speak English when happy chance found me
a travelling companion. Perhaps the solo experience might have been more uncom-
fortable among the groups of
vazaha
present in the more touristy areas. But if you're
thinking of seeing Madagascar alone - do it! I found that the rural Malagasy respond
with relief to someone who trusts them and will make you welcome. If you're in a
tourist area, try to find a like-minded
vazaha
to enjoy it with - and don't forget to
exchange email addresses; sharing the memories afterwards is as important as living
them.
TRAVELLING WITH CHILDREN
Daniel Austin
