Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Budget and penny-pincher
In early editions I described these as 'exhilaratingly dreadful
at times' until a reader wrote: 'We were rather disappointed by the quality of these hotels...
We found almost all the beds comfortable, generally acceptably clean, and not one rat. We
feltluxuriouslycheated!'However,thefollowingdescriptionfromRupertParkerofahotel
in Brickaville should gladden the masochistic heart: 'It is a conglomeration of shacks dir-
ectly beneath the road bridge. The rooms are partitioned-off spaces, just large enough to
hold a bed, in a larger wooden building - the partitions don't reach to the ceiling and there
is only one light bulb for all the rooms - the hotel manageress controls the switch. Not
only can you hear everyone's conversation and what they're up to, but when there is a new
arrival, at whatever time of the night, the light comes on and wakes everyone up - that is
if you've managed to ignore the rumbling and revving of trucks as they cross the bridge
above you, or the banging on the gate announcing the new arrival. Suffice to say the toilet
and washing facilities are non-existent.' It would be rather a shame if they've improved it
in the intervening years!
Such hotels certainly give the flavour of how Madagascar used to be, and in remote
areas you will still find the occasional sagging double bed and stinking hole toilet. Most of
the budget hotels in this topic are clean, friendly and excellent value. In an out-of-the-way
place you will pay as little as £0.60/€0.70/US$0.90 for the most basic room. For this you
get a bed, candle, mozzie coil, and ripped mozzie net. In small towns about £3.00/€3.60/
US$4.40 would be average for a room with a shared toilet - of sorts.
CAMPING
Until a decade ago Madagascar had no official campsites, although backpack-
ers with their own tent were often allowed to camp in hotel gardens. Now there are many,
especiallyinnationalparks.Suchcampingisusuallyonawoodenplatformwithathatched
roof above. If you have your own tent, make sure it is self-standing since you can't drive
tent pegs into the platform.
Self-sufficient backpackers will know the wonderful sense of freedom that comes with
carrying their own tent - there is all of Madagascar to explore!
EATING AND DRINKING
FOOD
Eating well is one of the delights of Madagascar, and even the fussiest tourists are
usually happy with the food. International hotels serve international food, usually with a
French bias, and often do special Malagasy dishes. Lodges and smaller hotels serve local
food which is almost always excellent, particularly on the coast where lobster (crayfish),
shellfish and other seafood predominates. Meat lovers will enjoy the zebu steaks, although
