Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
cultureinanunforcedway.Theseadvantagesfaroutweighthesecurityrisks;youaremuch
more likely to be overwhelmed by hospitality than robbed.
Bill and Nina French, who have made two trips in Madagascar by bicycle, recommend
the following routes: Manompana-Mananara (52km with some very difficult stretches),
the Masoala Peninsula, Ambalavao-Fianarantsoa, Manakara-Sahasinaka, Rano-
mafana-Fianarantsoa, Fianarantsoa-Soatanana-RN42, Lac Tritriva-Marinanpona and
Ambatolampy-Antananarivo.
For more information see the box on page78.
Caving
Madagascar has some fabulous caves, and several expeditions have been mounted
to explore them. Caving is not a popular Malagasy pursuit, however, so cavers should take
particular care to explain what they are doing and get the necessary permits for exploring
protected areas. An experienced local tour operator will help with the red tape.
The best karst areas are inthe northandwest:
Ankarana
(the best explored andmapped
area, with more than 100km of subterranean caves),
Narinda
(where the longest cave is
over 5km),
Bemaraha,
the
Mikoboka Plateau
(north of Toliara, with pits to a depth of
165m) and the
Mahafaly Plateau
(south of Toliara).
Diving
Liz Bomford,anexperienced diverwhohasbeenvisiting Madagascar for25years,
provided the following information.
'By far the best and most exciting diving is around Nosy Be and its galaxy of islands
and reefs. The biodiversity in this area is outstanding. Coral bleaching caused by global
warming has not affected the reefs to any great degree and you can find almost every hard
coral species known in the western Indian Ocean. You may see humpback whales as well
as dolphins from the boat. Underwater you could get lucky and find whale sharks. Nosy
Be is extraordinarily good for nudibranchs so there's something for everyone. The diving
operators inNosyBe workwith local fishermen toprotect the environment with the aim of
providing good diving conditions for tourists. You won't be disappointed.
'At Ile Sainte Marie, off the east coast, there are several good dive sites, and the dive
operators are a responsible bunch. However, visibility is often limited due to heavy rainfall
in this area.
'ThewestcoastaroundToliarausedtoofferverygooddiving(Ifirstdivedtherein1976)
but these days over-fishing has taken its toll and the diving is a shadow of what it used to
be.
'The water is colder in August and September (take a hood or a sweat) but the rest of
the year a 3mm or 5mm suit will do. Men will have no trouble hiring a suit but if you're a
woman,considertakingyourownwetsuit-otherwiseyoumayhavetroublefindingoneto
fit.'
