Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Independent travellers can save money and help Madagascar by avoiding the few most
popular national parks in favour of the less well known and less expensive (but often
equally rewarding) ones - see
Click Here
.
The seriously adventurous
Madagascar must be one of the very few countries left in
the world where large areas are not yet detailed in a guidebook. A study of the standard
1:2,000,000 map of Madagascar reveals some mouth-watering possibilities, and a look at
the more detailed 1:500,000 maps confirms the opportunities for people who are willing
to walk or cycle. Or drive. Two of my most adventurous correspondents, Valerie and John
Middleton, have travelled all over Madagascar by 4x4 vehicle. Asked why they keep com-
ingback,theyreplied:'Wehavehadapassionforworldwidecaveandkarstexplorationfor
well over 40 years and for plants, and in particular their adaptation to extreme conditions.'
Having a focus helps, especially when explaining your presence to bemused locals.
Serious adventurers will need to plan their trip beforehand with the FTM regional maps.
The Middletons tell me: 'It is possible to obtain photocopies of the 1:100,000 maps that
cover Madagascar, plus a few of the 1:25,000 that cover only a small area, in person only
from The Institut Geographique Nationale, 2-4 Avenue Pasteur, 94165 Saint-Mande, Par-
is.' If you don't live within reach of Paris you will have to purchase the maps in Tana; see
Valerie and John also support my theory that the seriously adventurous are often 'pen-
sioners'. Not that the youngsters don't do their bit for exploring Madagascar's uncharted
areas.Throughoutthisbooktherearequotesfrompeoplewhodidjustthat,sometimesafter
a lot of preparation and sometimes on a whim.
Not everyone is courageous enough to step or pedal into the unknown like this, but in
fact it's one of the safest ways to travel: the Malagasy that you meet will, once they have
got over the shock of seeing you, invariably be welcoming and hospitable. It's how I first
saw Madagascar and why I fell in love with the place.
Travelling alone
To travel alone may be a matter of choice or necessity. The trick is to
make the necessity into choice by revelling in the opportunity to get close to the local
people and to immerse yourself in their culture.
Lone travellers need to be prepared for the long evenings. Robert Bowker found nights
at national parks particularly lonely: 'Dinner is early, and after that nothing to do but go
to your bungalow. Take a powerful torch and lots to read. I got through a fair number of
crossword puzzles. Also take music...' For budding writers evenings alone are the perfect
time to develop your diary skills.
Another problem which needs to be borne in mind when planning a solo trip is that na-
tional parks and reserves will be expensive unless you team up with other travellers, be-
cause guide fees are usually the same for one person as for a group of four. The same goes
