Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
all), including the impressive Haiden hall, are exact reproductions of the originals, dating
from the 17th to 19th centuries. The shrine is entered from a long approach through two
torii
(shrine gateways). The two large conical white-sand mounds in front of Hosodono
hall are said to represent mountains sculpted for gods to descend upon. It's not one of
Kyoto's leading sights but it's worth a look if you find yourself in the north.
HIEI-ZAN & ENRYAKU-JI
( 077-578-0001; 4220 Honmachi, Sakamoto, Ōtsu city, Shiga; admission ¥550; 8.30am-4.30pm, 9am-4pm
winter)
A visit to 848m-high Hiei-zan and the vast Enryaku-ji complex is a good way to
spend half a day hiking, poking around temples and enjoying the atmosphere of a key site
in Japanese history.
| MOUNTAIN, TEMPLE
Enryaku-ji was founded in 788 by Saichō, also known as Dengyō-daishi, the priest who
established the Tenzai school. This school did not receive imperial recognition until 823,
after Saichō's death; however, from the 8th century the temple grew in power. At its
height, Enryaku-ji possessed some 3000 buildings and an army of thousands of
sōhei
(warrior monks). In 1571 Oda Nobunaga saw the temple's power as a threat to his aims to
unify the nation and he destroyed most of the buildings, along with the monks inside.
Today only three pagodas and 120 minor temples remain.
The complex is divided into three sections: Tōtō, Saitō and Yokawa. The
Tōtō
(eastern
pagoda section) contains the
Kompon Chū-dō
(Primary Central Hall), which is the most
important building in the complex. The flames on the three dharma lamps in front of the
altar have been kept lit for more than 1200 years. The
Daikō-dō
(Great Lecture Hall) dis-
plays life-sized wooden statues of the founders of various Buddhist schools. This part of
the temple is heavily geared to group access, with large expanses of asphalt for parking.
The
Saitō
(western pagoda section) contains the Shaka-dō, which dates from 1595 and
houses a rare Buddha sculpture of the Shaka Nyorai (Historical Buddha). The Saitō, with
its stone paths winding through forests of tall trees, temples shrouded in mist and the
sound of distant gongs, is the most atmospheric part of the temple. Hold on to your ticket
from the Tōtō section, as you may need to show it here.
The
Yokawa
is of minimal interest and a 4km bus ride away from the Saitō area. The
Chū-dō
here was originally built in 848. It was destroyed by fire several times and has
undergone repeated reconstruction (most recently in 1971). If you plan to visit this area as
well as Tōtō and Saitō, allow a full day for in-depth exploration.
