Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
of its popular neighbour, but it does make an interesting end point to a fine walk in the
country.
The history of the temple is exceedingly tragic. The actual founding date of the temple
is subject to some debate (it's thought to be somewhere between the 6th and 11th centur-
ies), but it acquired fame as the temple that harboured Kenrei Mon-in, a lady of the Taira
clan. In 1185 the Taira were soundly defeated in a sea battle against the Minamoto clan at
Dan-no-ura. With the entire Taira clan slaughtered or drowned, Kenrei Mon-in threw her-
self into the waves with her son Antoku, the infant emperor; she was fished out - the only
member of the clan to survive.
She was returned to Kyoto, where she became a nun and lived in a bare hut until it col-
lapsed during an earthquake. Kenrei Mon-in was then accepted into Jakkō-in and stayed
there, immersed in prayer and sorrowful memories, until her death 27 years later. Her
tomb is located high on the hill behind the temple.
The main building of this temple burned down in May 2000 and the newly reconstruc-
ted main hall lacks some of the charm of the original. Nonetheless, it is a nice spot.
Jakkō-in is west of Ōhara. Walk out of the bus station up the road to the traffic lights,
then follow the small road to the left. You might have to ask directions on the way.
Kurama & Kibune
Located just 30 minutes north of Kyoto, Kurama and Kibune are a pair of tranquil valleys
that have been long favoured as places to escape the crowds and stresses of the city.
Kurama's main attractions are its mountain temple and
onsen
(mineral hot spring).
Kibune, an impossibly charming little hamlet just over the ridge, is a cluster of ryokan
overlooking a mountain river. Kibune is best in summer, when the ryokan serve dinner on
platforms built over the rushing waters of Kibune-gawa, providing welcome relief from
the heat.
The two valleys lend themselves to being explored together. In winter, you can start
from Kibune, walk 30 minutes over the ridge, visit Kurama-dera, then soak in the
onsen
before heading back to Kyoto. In summer, the reverse route is better: start from Kurama,
walk up to the temple, then down the other side to Kibune to enjoy a meal suspended
above the cool river. Either way, a trip to Kurama and Kibune is probably the single best
day or half-day trip possible from Kyoto city.
