Central Kyoto - Kyoto - page 169

10-minute ride on one of the smoke-spewing choo-choos (departures at 11am, 1.30pm and
3.30pm).

SHISEN-DŌ
( 詩仙堂 ; 781-2954; Sakyō-ku, Ichijōji, Monguchi -chō 27; adult ¥500, child ¥200-400; 9am-4:45pm;
5min walk from Ichijōji-kudari-matsu-machi bus stop, bus 5 from Kyoto Station) Most travellers to Kyoto
don't venture beyond Ginkaku-ji ( CLICK HERE ) when exploring the northern reaches of Hi-
gashiyama, but there are several other worthwhile temples in this part of town, including
Shisen-dō and Manshu-in ( CLICK HERE ). These two temples make a nice combination and
are usually ignored by the masses who descend on Kyoto's more popular temples. Note
that it's too far to walk here from Ginkaku-ji; consider a taxi or the bus.

| TEMPLE

With a name meaning 'house of poet-hermits', Shisen-dō was built in 1641 by Ishikawa
Jōzan, a scholar of Chinese classics and a landscape architect who wanted a place to re-
tire. Formerly a samurai, Jōzan abandoned his warrior status after a rift with Tokugawa
Ieyasu and became a recluse, living here until his death in 1672 at the age of 90.

The hermitage is noted for its display of poems and portraits of 36 ancient Chinese po-
ets, which can be found in the Shisen-no-ma room. The white-sand karesansui (dry-land-
scape rock garden) is lined with azaleas, which are said to represent islands in the sea. The
garden also reflects Jōzan's distinct taste for Chinese aesthetics. It's a tranquil place to re-
lax.

In the garden, water flows from a small waterfall to the shishi-odoshi , or sōzu , a
device designed to scare away wild boar and deer. It's made from a bamboo pipe into
which water slowly trickles, fills up and swings down to empty. On the upswing to its ori-
ginal position the bamboo strikes a stone with a 'thwack' - just loud enough to interrupt
your snooze - before starting to refill.

MANSHU-IN
( 曼殊院 ; 781-5010; Sakyō-ku, Ichijōji, Takeno uchi-chō 42; adult ¥500, child ¥400-500; 9am-4.30pm;
20min walk from Shūgakuin Station, Eizan line) About 30 minutes' walk north of Shisen-dō ( CLICK
HERE ) you'll reach the stately gate of Manshu-in, a popular retreat of former emperors and
a great escape from the crowds. The temple was originally founded by Saichō on Hiei-zan
( CLICK HERE ) but was relocated here at the beginning of the Edo period by Ryōshōhō, the
son of Prince Hachijōnomiya Tomohito (who built Katsura Rikyū; CLICK HERE ).

| TEMPLE

The graceful temple architecture is often compared with Katsura Rikyū for its detailed
woodwork and rare works of art, such as fusuma-e sliding doors painted by Kanō Eitoku,
a famed artist of the Momoyama period. The karesansui garden by Kobori Enshū features