Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
When Yes Means No, & No Means Yes
It's worth noting that traditionally Bulgarians shake their heads from side to
side when saying yes (“da”), and nod when saying no (“ne”). This quirky char-
acteristic is less apparent among the cool city MTV generation, but definitely
worth knowing when asking, or answering, a question.
service industry are often far friendlier. Things improve hugely in the countryside,
where curiosity and warmth are the order of the day, and simple requests may not be
understood but are met with a wreath of smiles and an invitation to sample a glass of
home-brewed rakia. According to the WVS, Bulgarians, like most East Europeans, are
also fatalists, which goes some way to understanding their passive attitude to the
endemic corruption and political cul-de-sac they seem to find themselves in.
Despite 4 decades of atheist-propagating Communism, 86.6% of Bulgarians are
members of the Bulgarian Orthodox Church. There is also a significant minority of
Muslims living in the south, including the so-called Pomaks in the Rhodope—Bul-
garians forced under the Ottoman rule in the 16th century to convert to the Islamic
faith. The tiny minority Gypsies (or Roma, descendants of Indian refugees) are still
seriously discriminated against. While sections of the traditional rural society seems
unchanged by the advent of the 21st century (at the end of 2005 only 27% of the
population had a bank account; over 60% had ever had dealings with a bank), thanks
to the ubiquitous TV, Western influences are now exerting pressure, and you'd be
hard-pressed to find a bottle of rakia in the hip bars of central Sofia. And while the
tradition of the extended family living under one roof is still common, patterns are
changing, and young Bulgarians opt to remain childless or migrate west to more lucra-
tive jobs. Most say they have every intention of returning. And despite the problems
Bulgaria faces, it's not hard to see why.
BULGARIAN CUISINE
If you're expecting stodgy East European stews, think again: While the pretentious
may brand it essentially as “peasant” cuisine, Bulgarian food is the best-kept secret this
side of the Balkans, with an emphasis on fresh seasonal produce, and healthy, unfussy
preparation methods. Influenced by the 500-year Turkish occupation and its proxim-
ity to Greece, it features plenty of spices (many of which are endemic to Bulgaria), and
predominantly chicken, pork, and veal, often baked with cheese or yogurt, and piles
of fresh and flavorsome vegetables. Perhaps the answer to why Bulgarian fare is so deli-
cious (and hard to export) lies in the quality of the Bulgarian soil, which some say is
imbued with a special bio-energy (certainly its herbs are considered of the highest
quality in Europe), a result no doubt of its numerous mineral-rich rivers and streams.
Bulgarians almost always start their meal with a fresh simple salad, accompanied by
a shot (or two) of rakia, the local grape- or plum-based liquor. Meat—chicken or pork,
usually chargrilled over coals or baked in an earthenware pot with vegetables—fol-
lows, with a side order of potatoes or bread. Chubritsa—a unique Bulgarian spice—
is usually on the table to spice up a meal should you deem it too bland.
Besides the wonderful quality of the cuisine there is the price: you need not pay
more than 3
($4-$7) for a meal; about as much for a good quality red wine to
accompany it; wine lovers will do well to order wine made with Mavrud or Melnik,
both grape varieties unique to Bulgaria (white wines fare less well).
€
-5
€
