Bulgaria - Eastern Europe - page 56

1 Getting to Know Bulgaria
THE LAY OF THE LAND
Situated on the eastern part of the Balkan Peninsula, Bulgaria is sandwiched between
Greece and Turkey to the south and the Danube River that denotes most of its bor-
der with Romania to the north. West lies Macedonia and Serbia; east the Black Sea.
Over half the country is mountainous, with the Sredna Gora and Balkan range slic-
ing the country in half, and the south-central plains (known as the Valley of Kings)
flanked by the Pirin, Rila, and Rhodope mountain ranges.
THE REGIONS IN BRIEF
To the west lies the capital Sofia, with some 1.2 million citizens, by far the most popu-
lous area in the country. But within 90 minutes you are in the southern mountain
ranges where the country really starts to strut its stuff. Dominating the region are the
eternally snowcapped and majestic peaks of the Rila and Pirin —stopping just short
of 3,000m (9,840 ft.), these mountains are home to the country's most popular hikes
and skiing opportunities as well as the hottest mineral spring in Europe—a scalding
216°F (102°C) (though sadly, none of these are well used). East of the Rila and Pirin
lie the Rhodope range—with riverine gorges and valleys covered in virgin forest, dot-
ted throughout with mountain villages. Touring this region by car is a must for any
traveler serious about seeing the best Bulgaria has to offer.
Running east of Sofia, through central Bulgaria, are the gently undulating Sredna
Gora and Balkan mountain ranges, creating the Danubian plains of the north (which
has no real attractions), while their southern slopes drop into the evocative-sounding
Valley of Kings (also known as Valley of Roses, after the rose farms here that produce
some of the world's best-quality attar). Kazanluk is the unofficial capital of the Val-
ley, but Plovdiv (pop. 340,000), Bulgaria's second-biggest city, with a gorgeous his-
toric center, makes a far better base.
A short drive north from Plovdiv, in the central Balkan range, is the tiny city of
Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria's medieval capital, less known but as captivating as Plovdiv,
and a good stopover on your way to Varna, third-biggest city (pop. 300,000, but
swelling considerably during summer). This marks the beginning of a highly commer-
cialized concrete ribbon of resorts that line the 380km (236-mile) Black Sea coastline,
broken by the UNESCO-listed village of Nessebar, with its numerous Byzantine-
influenced churches and laid-back Sozopol.
SUGGESTED ITINERARY: BULGARIA IN 1 WEEK
The following tour covers the best of Bulgaria, but at a cracking pace. If you want to
relax along the way, extend it by 3 days, with 2 nights in Sofia, Plovdiv, and Veliko
Tarnovo. If you're really pushed for time, 4 days will have to do; if so, opt for a night
in Sofia, Kovachevitsa, Plovdiv, and Veliko Tarnovo.

Day 1 : Arrive in Sofia
Spend the afternoon acclimatizing—have
an espresso in one of the open-air bars
near the City Garden, and book a table
for dinner at Beyond the Alley. If you've
got the energy, tackle the walking tour (or

at the very least, visit the Russian
churches), then spend a few hours in the
History Museum (remember that it's
closed on Mon). Get back to bed early so
you're ready to rise at dawn.