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On Tartini trg, in the Venetian House, visit the stylish outlet of the Se c ovlje Salt-
mine, Piranske Soline ( & 05/673-3110; www.soline.si), one of the country's more
unusual stores where you can purchase cosmetic salt, salted chocolate, and coarse sea
salt, all beautifully packaged.
6 Exploring Eastern Slovenia
Slovenes tell us that a few years back, Celje, the country's third-largest city, was the
fastest growing in Europe. Whether or not this is true, it suggests just how much room
for growth there is east of Ljubljana. Though Celje itself does not hold much to inter-
est the first-time visitor it's worth setting aside a few days in July to visit neighboring
La s ko , a gorgeous town that holds a weeklong celebration in honor of its main
product: beer—don't miss this lively festival if want to witness Slovenia's penchant for
polka bands, street parades, and all-night merrymaking. Other than this, three desti-
nations beckon: the salubrious riverside university town of Maribor, whose citizens
seem entirely given over to idling in cafes and soaking up the atmosphere along its tiny
waterfront; Ptuj, once a Roman stronghold; and, farther east, the vineyards along the
peaceful Jeruzalem Wine Route (easily taken in as a day trip from Ptuj or Maribor).
There's a congenial air about Maribor (www.maribor-tourism.si), Slovenia's sec-
ond-largest city. Straddling both banks of the River Drava, with its historic center to
the north, Maribor evolved as a market town in the early 13th century. Today Mari-
bor is a pleasant university town; its position at the foot of Pohorje Mountain, gar-
landed by winegrowing hills, giving it an idyllic aspect. The Drava itself has plenty of
spots for swimming, fishing, and even sailing, while south of the center, Zgornje Rad-
vanje is a base for mountain activities in the Maribor Pohorje ski resort.
It's worth climbing to the top of the Cathedral Tower, located in the historic cen-
ter, to get a bird's-eye impression from the wraparound viewing platform, then explor-
ing Vinag Wine Cellar (Vinagova klet, behind the recently renovated City
Castle; & 02/220-8111; www.vinag.si); comprising 2km (1 1 4 miles) of subterranean
caves that run right beneath the city, the cellar provides storage for up to 5.5 million
liters of wine. South of the castle is Grajski trg, a pedestrian cafe haunt, where flea
marketers operate at weekends. Head south past more shops and bars to reach the
city's main square, Glavni trg, fringed by lovely architecture and centered on Straub's
majestic 18th-century Plague Monument. For many, the highlight of Maribor is a
ramble along the waterfront promenade, centered on a small, salubrious area known
as Lent , the city's principal docking port before the arrival of the railway in 1862.
Lent is defined by its pleasant bars and cafes, but the most famous attraction here is
the Stara Trta, at 400 years supposedly the world's oldest living vine, and the June
Lent Festival .
From Maribor, Ptuj (pronounced pit- ooey ) is a short drive along bucolic back
roads. Called Poetovio by the Romans, Ptuj (www.ptuj-tourism.si) became a town in
977; with its hilltop castle and cobblestone streets, it feels every bit the medieval stone-
walled fortress. Like Maribor, Ptuj straddles the banks of the River Drava; the Romans
put greater Ptuj on the map when they grew the population to 40,000, transforming
it into one of the largest provinces in the Empire, an important trade point along the
road linking the Mediterranean and Baltic seas. Today, the population has dropped to
20,000, but its Roman and medieval heritage continue to lend it considerable charm.
Ptuj's Gothic-era City Tower marks Slovenski trg, at the heart of the old town. Near
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