Slovenia - Eastern Europe - page 672

Nebesa Nebesa means “Heaven,” and it isn't much of an exaggeration,
with each of the four private guesthouses, overlooking Kobarid and the So c a Valley, feel-
ing as though it's on the edge of the world. Built in wood, with steeply pitched roofs, the
little cottages are designed as a contemporary take on traditional mountain hay-houses.
All things considered, they're perfect; the minimalist interiors (wooden floors and smart,
simple contemporary furniture) draw attention to the large picture windows that frame
those astonishing views you get from the lounge and the upstairs sleeping area. Each unit
also has a porch, from which you can play god to the valley below. You also have your
own kitchen with a fridge that's stocked for your basic needs. Guests have access to a com-
munal dining area and kitchen, as well as a sauna, fitness room (with meditation and yoga
areas). There's a sublime help-yourself cellar with on-tap house wine and prosciutto that
you are welcome to shave yourself. From up here, you can see Italy and even feel a sea
breeze from the gulf; the neighboring property is home to 30 deer, one of which is tame
enough to come when called. What's more, your hosts epitomize Slovene hospitality and
will introduce you to the truly debonair spirit of the nation.
Livec39, 5222 Kobarid. & 05/384-4620. www.nebesa.si. 4 units. 220 € ($275) per guesthouse; 198 € ($248) per
night 2-day stay. Rates are all-inclusive. Amenities: Dining room w/kitchen; wine cellar; wellness center w/pool,
sauna, and yoga area; laundry. In room:Kitchen (fridge, stove, oven, kettle, toaster), hi-fi.
WHERE TO DINE
Hisa Franko EXPERIMENTAL You haven't dined in Slovenia until you've
tried this hugely innovative restaurant just outside Kobarid. Making magic in the
kitchen is Ana Ro s , who gave up her career as a national skier when she fell in love,
and then discovered a passion for food. Ana's imagination inspires a regularly chang-
ing menu, which might include such dishes as “deer filet on a Cuba chocolate with
fresh mint, lime, and mushroom” or “trout filet in green tea and jasmine flower crust
with an orange salad.” If it's available, try the suckling pig, served with rhubarb chut-
ney and almond pâté; it's absolute bliss. As are the desserts, like fresh fig salad in sweet
spices and red-wine jus with white chocolate foam and toasted almonds. Running the
wine department is Ana's lovely husband, Valter Kramar, who trained extensively at
Italy's Gradisca d'Isonzo, and knows his wines. He's been cultivating a stellar cellar for
years, so this is one meal where you should splurge on a few of his five-star rated wines.
Casa Hi@a Franko, Staro Selo 1. & 05/389-4120. www.hisafranko.com. Main courses 12 € -16 € ($15-$20); side
dishes 2.90

Finds

($3.15). AE, DC, MC, V. Wed-Sun noon-3pm and 7-10pm.
Topli Val SEAFOOD This is one of the finest seafood restaurants in central
Europe; no wonder regular diners come from across the border to join in the feasting
that's best enjoyed on the small terrace on warm summer nights. Do yourself a favor:
Ignore the menu and ask what's hot. You'll be served wonderful creations dreamed up
by Vlado Hvala, the patriarch in this family business, who still rules the kitchen after
3 decades. To start there may be fresh scampi with shredded crab, or kabob-style skew-
ered prawns. Then move on to whatever fish of the day is recommended; fresh from
the Adriatic, it'll be baked in salt for maximum flavor. If you want to sample every-
thing, share the gourmet platter; it includes lobster, sea bass, scallops, mussels, and fish
kabobs. Order a bottle of perfect, dry Brda c etrti c Ferdinand Belo (2002) to go with
your meal. Finish with hot blueberries and ice cream, or the famous Kobari s ki struklji,
with ice cream and cinnamon.
In the Hotel Hvala, Trg svobode 1. & 05/389-9300. Main courses 7 € -28 € ($8.75-$35). AE, DC, MC, V. Dec-Jan
and Mar 15-Oct noon-3pm and 7-10pm.

€ ($3.65). Cover charge 2.50 €