Slovenia - Eastern Europe - page 670

VrsicPass: From Bled to the Soca Valley
Slovenia's best drive traverses VrsicPass, an awesome journey between Kranjska
Gora, just north of Triglav National Park, over Mount Vrsic, and down to the
town of Trenta. The intense drive takes you through beautiful views of soaring
rocky peaks and lush, plunging valleys. It's the most spectacular way of travel-
ing the otherwise short distance between Bled and the Soca Valley, but requires
cautious driving to negotiate 50 numbered hairpin bends along the 25km (16-
mile) roller-coaster route. At bend number eight, the Ruska kapelica (Russian
Chapel) honors the 300 odd Russian prisoners of war who died in an avalanche
while building the road; near bend 21 is the cemetery for the thousands more
who died during construction, often starved or tortured to death. There are
great viewing sites along the way; the highest point (at 1,611m/5,284 ft.) is
Vrsic, where there's a parking fee. Be aware that the road can be alarmingly
narrow; some drivers speed in spite of this. Cows and sheep may stumble across
the way; cyclists, too, are ubiquitous, but usually more alert.
Skiing around Bohinj is arguably the best in the country from a scenic point of
view. Cable cars whisk passengers from the western end of Lake Bohinj to Ski Center
Vogel, from where there are chairlifts for skiers wishing to access some of the higher
reaches of the Triglav Mountain range. Alpinsport ( & 04/572-3486; www.
alpinsport.si) is the place to hire an instructor and ski equipment. Besides offering sce-
nic flights, Alpski Letalski Center (www.alc-lesce.si) runs gliding courses in two-
seater and Alpine gliders, and Cessna flying courses for beginners. If you'd rather feel
the wind beneath your feet, ask Alpski to arrange a tandem parachuting jump from
3,000m (9,840 ft.); you'll be enjoying the same perfect free-falling views enjoyed by
jumpers during the world parachuting championships. Pac Sports ( & 04/572-3461;
www.pac-sports.com) is the place to call if you feel like a spot of tandem paragliding
instead: same breathtaking views but a lot less scary.
THE SOCA VALLEY: KOBARID & BOVEC
A haven for adventurers, the valley formed by the electric turquoise advance of the
So c a—one of Europe's loveliest rivers—is scintillating. This part of the country is
blessed with gorgeous mountain views, splendid towns, plenty of well-organized
sports outfitters, and a people who are as charming as they are relaxed. It may be
Slovenia's least developed region, with a dwindling population of just 19,000 (gener-
ally due to overeducation!), but it is likely to provide many of the defining moments
of your visit to Slovenia. Kobarid is at the heart of the more exclusive and developed
portion of the valley, offering its best accommodations, and two of the country's finest
restaurants. Slightly north of Kobarid, Bovec is one of the prime adventure resorts in
Slovenia; it's an excellent ski resort and ideal for access to the So c a River, which hosts
a number of international rafting competitions. The valley is also great for biking,
with extreme cycling races held around Bovec—and given the enchanting topography,
a wonderful place to observe from the air.
GETTING THERE
From Bled and Bohinj, the most exciting way to get to Bovec or Kobarid is by driv-
ing over the Vr s i c Pass, via the Kranjska Gora winter resort; there is also a bus that trav-
erses the pass at a very gentle speed.