Slovenia - Eastern Europe - page 668

WHAT TO SEE & DO
Don't miss either of the lakes (both reviewed below), and allow time to swim if you're
here in summer. Both lakes are starting points for rewarding hikes—either right
around the lakes themselves or into the valleys and gorges nearby. It may be a serious
splurge but consider reserving a scenic flight over the lakes; contact Alpski Letalski
Center in Lesce ( & 04/532-0100; www.alc-lesce.si) to organize a panoramic flight
over Bled, Bohinj, and Mount Triglav. Over and above the normal summer chaos,
each July sees Bled host Blejski Dnevi (Bled Days), a festival that includes music
concerts and ends with fireworks and the spectacular sight of thousands of lit candles
floating on the lake. Earlier in the same month, there's a highly regarded festival of
classical music (www.festivalbled.com). In August, Bled prepares for a lineup of world
music entertainments as part of the Okarina Etno Festival.
Bled's pseudo-Gothic St. Martin's Parish Church (Cerkov Svetega Martina) is
situated below the Castle, overlooking the Lake. Consecrated in 1905, it is worth vis-
iting for the intriguing interior frescoes by Slavko Pengov (the same artist responsible
for the paintings in Tito's former cinema at Vila Bled); in particular look for the clever
rendition of the Last Supper, in which Judas has been depicted as none other than
Comrade Lenin!
Five kilometers northeast of Bled, the River Radovna has carved the mile-long
Vintgar Gorge , one of Slovenia's great natural attractions. Visitors can experience
the spectacle of rushing rapids and gushing waterfalls, which include the 13m (43-ft.)
S um Waterfall, by traversing the bridges and walkways put in place since the end of
the 19th century, when the gorge was first opened to the public. To get there, leave
Bled via Pre s erenova cesta, heading toward Podhom (there are plenty of signs), which
marks the public entrance; there's a small admission fee. Babji Zob Caves , named
for the monstrous-looking “Hag's Tooth” rock formation above them, are some 4km
(2 1 ⁄ 2 miles) west of Bled, and require participation in a 3-hour guided tour.
Blejsko Jezero Lake Bled is a jewel, pure and simple. Nestled between two
great mountain ranges—the Karavanke and the Julian Alps, which tumble into Slove-
nia from Austria and Italy respectively—there is something indescribably beautiful
about the way in which the surface of the water changes through the day, wearing its
striking turquoise facade when the sun is brightest, and maturing to a silver-blue as
dusk descends. Swans swoop down over its surface, and gondolier-style oarsmen steer
their pletna across the waters (transporting tourists for an outrageous fee), adding to
the fairy-tale idea of the place; occasionally a fierce and noisy rowing regatta changes
the energy entirely. To get a good idea of the size of the lake, and to appreciate it from
every angle, walk the hour-long route around its perimeter. Adding to the drama of
its setting is its darling islet forming a perfect centerpiece: You can row (or be rowed)
to Bled Island (Blejski Otok) , but fitter types like to break the “official” rules
and swim to it—an utterly invigorating exercise, this is highly recommended if you're
a strong swimmer. On the island is the delightful Church of the Assumption ,
dedicated to both Mary the Virgin and Mary Magdalene, and built on the site where
the ancestors of modern Slovenes worshipped an ancient Slavic goddess. The pagan
idol was broken down in the 11th century when Slovenes were Christianized. People
from all over Slovenia come here to tie the knot on Saturdays, only to discover that
the tradition of carrying the bride up the 99 stairs to the church is tough (many grooms,
in fact, conduct test runs before the wedding day, in order to avert an embarrassing dis-
aster). Inside the church, look out for the frescoed reference to Christ's circumcision, a