Slovenia - Eastern Europe - page 666

the office of the helpful Bohinj Tourist Association (Turisti c no dru s tvo Bohinj;
Rib c ev Laz 48; & 04/574-6010; www.bohinj.si), open 8am to 8pm in summer. Buses
also continue to Ukanc at the far side of the lake.
WHERE TO STAY
Bled's infrastructure is fairly sophisticated, evident in its excessive line up of large
hotels, many of which cater to tour buses. Lake Bohinj has fewer options, and most
of these are smaller pensions with homely accommodations at good rates; the tourist
offices will be able to point you toward such bargains.
In Bled
Budget hunters who you don't mind bunking up and sharing bathroom facilities
should consider spending the night at Bledec Youth Hostel (Grajska cesta 17; & 04/
574-5250; www.mlino.si), one of Europe's nicest, with a terrace overlooking the lake.
Still, it's a hostel; a big step up is quaint and lovely Mayer Penzion ( Z ele s ka 7; & 04/
574-1058; www.mayer-sp.si), a family-run operation with 12 comfortable en-suite
guest rooms right near the lake; dining here is excellent.
Grand Hotel Toplice Built in 1931, Bled's most opulent hotel is an ivy-cov-
ered stone building right at the water's edge. In summer, guests flock to the wooden
deck that hovers over the water and affords immaculate views across the lake and up to
the castle. Interiors are styled with antiques and Persian rugs, plenty of carved wood,
and crystal chandeliers. You simply must reserve a lake-facing room (which all have bal-
conies behind shuttered doors) to make the most of the most awesome setting in town.
Although bedrooms aren't enormous, they're well proportioned and beautiful, with par-
quet floors and air-cushioned mattresses. It's all superclassy, and staff are charming.
There's also a full on-site spa, with naturally-heated indoor pool fed by thermal waters
and a drinking fountain with mineral water tapped straight from the earth.
Cesta svobode 12, 4260 Bled. & 04/579-1000. Fax [phone]. www.hotel-toplice.si. 87 units. 131 € -211 €
($164-$264) double; 261 ($326-$751) suite. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restau-

rant; bar; terrace; lounge; golfing privileges; spa w/pool, massage, sauna, treatments; room service; laundry. In room:
A/C, TV, minibar, hair dryer, safe.
Vila Bled One of Slovenia's few Relais & Châteaux properties, this estatelike
hotel is set in lovely gardens near the edge of the lake. Originally a royal villa, then
rebuilt as a country retreat for Marshall Tito's favored guests in 1947, the hotel has
since seen the likes of Prince Charles, William Hurt, and Jeff Bridges. Accommoda-
tions are divided between huge suites and fairly small doubles. Reserve a suite for a
real sense of being on Tito's VIP list: Decked out with parquet floors, massive win-
dows and big Art Deco furniture, they have a distinctive Soviet atmosphere conjuring
up memories of secret meetings in a smoke-filled haze. The 1950s styling includes
idiosyncratic period pieces such as chunky telephones and gigantic ashtrays, and
everything—from silverware to waste bins—has been monogrammed. The hotel has
a private “lido” on the lake (basically a wooden deck for sunbathing), and boats are
available so you can row yourself to Bled Island. Do visit the first-floor meeting room,
where Tito had his private cinema; the walls feature Slavko Pengov's pro-Yugoslav fres-
coes dating back to 1947. Even if you don't spend the night, book a table at the Vila
Bled Restaurant , offering the best food and service in town; dishes are better
priced than you might imagine (mains range from 14

€ -601 €

/$18-$26).
Cesta svobode 26, 4260 Bled. & 04/579-1500. Fax [phone]. www.vila-bled.com. 30 units. 191 € -210 €
($239-$263) double; 210

€ -21 €

€ -290 € ($263-$363) suite; 620 € ($775) presidential suite. Rates include breakfast. AE,