Slovenia - Eastern Europe - page 661

Vegova ulica runs south from Kongresni trg, passing the National and University
Library (reviewed below), and terminating at the 1929 Illyrian Monument (another
of Ple c nik's contributions), which marks French Revolution Square (Trg Francoske
revolucije). It's also where you'll find the Kri z anke Summer Theater; formerly the
Monastery of the Holy Cross, it's now an outdoor theater venue used during the
Ljubljana Summer Festival. The complex was redesigned by Ple c nik in the 1950s.
Stretching past the open end of Kongresni trg is Slovenska cesta, the city's main
road. Just north of the square is the “famous” Neboti c nik “skyscraper.” Designed by
Vladimir Subic, this is the “Rockefeller Center of the Balkans.” Commissioned in the
1930s, it was then Europe's tallest residential building. Sadly, in recent years it became
Ljubljana's favorite suicide spot, prompting the closure of the upper level to allow for
the building of a protective fence around the top-floor perimeter.
West of Slovenska cesta is the gorgeous Opera House (along Cankarjeva
cesta), worth seeing just for the loveliness of its facade; it was built in the neo-Renais-
sance style in 1892. Farther west, on Pre s ernova cesta, are the two main art galleries
(both reviewed below), and Tivoli Park , where you can visit the International
Center of Graphic Arts (Pod turnom 3; & 01/241-3800; www.mglc-lj.si), occu-
pying mansionlike Tivoli Castle (it's a 10-min. walk from Old Town, or you can hop
on a bus to Hala Tivoli). The Center hosts excellent temporary programs with diverse
themes, from street art and film and theater costumes, to amazing record cover
designs. Also in the park is Ljubljana's National Museum of Contemporary History
(Celov s ka cesta 23; & 01/300-9610; www.muzej-nz.si), which makes for a possible
diversion; exhibits highlight significant moments from 20th-century Slovenia.
Back near the Opera House the National Museum (Muzejska ulica 1; & 01/241-
4400; www.narmuz-lj.si; Fri-Wed 10am-6pm, Thurs 10am-8pm), where the prize
possession is Slovenia's oldest discovered artwork, a 5th-century- B . C . Iron Age bronze
urn known as the Va c e Situla. The museum occupies a neo-Renaissance palace built in
1883 to 1885; in the same building is the Museum of Natural History.
Just south of the museum building is Trg Republike, an unattractive square where
concrete blocks hide Cankarjev Dom, a major space for cultural events and exhibi-
tions. Also here is the Parliament, marked by an interesting sculpted relief around the
entrance; the figures represent different aspects of social and industrial life.
Farther south of the center is the residential suburb of Trn ovo , with a small, bur-
geoning cafe culture that attracts a mixed crowd; it's also where you'll find Ple c nik's
House , behind Trnovo Church (Karunova ulica 4; & 01/540-0346; www.

arhmuz.com; Tues-Wed 10am-2pm).
TOP ATTRACTIONS
Arhitekturni Muzej Somewhat off the beaten track, the city's Architectural
Museum is likely to be a highlight for anyone interested in learning about the built
environment—at least as far as it pertains to Ljubljana's urban planning god, Jo z e
Ple c nik. Housed in a 16th-century Renaissance castle, Grad Fu z ine, the “museum” is
more accurately a tribute solely to Ple c nik, centered on a condensed version of his
“Paris Exhibition,” which wowed visitors to the Pompidou 2 decades ago.
Pot na Fuzine 2. & 01/540-0346. www.arhmuz.com. Fuzine Castle Mon-Fri 10am-2pm.
Ljubljanski Grad According to the legends, the dragon slain by St. George
lived beneath the hill on which Ljubljana Castle is situated, and around which the
capital has grown. Start you exploration of the city up here, where you can climb up