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and a separate toilet. The suite is done out in a more contemporary style with an air-
conditioned loft bedroom and downstairs living area with its own kitchen; it even has
a private rooftop terrace. On the other end of the scale are a number of small rooms
with shared bathrooms for travelers on a budget (just 70
/$88 double). At press time,
the hotel was only serving breakfast.
Gornji trg 3, 1000 Ljubljana. & 01/421-3561. Fax 01/421-3565. www.antique-hotel.com. 70 -153 ($88-$191)
double; 185
($231) suite. Rates include breakfast and taxes. AE, MC, V. Children under 4 stay free in parent's room.
Amenities: Lounge; bar; room service; laundry. In room:A/C (some), TV, minibar, hair dryer, safe.
Hotel Slon One of the most conveniently situated hotels in Ljubljana, walking
distance from all the sights (although be warned: it's also on the busiest road in town),
this Best Western “Premiere” property has a history stretching from 1552, when Arch-
duke Maximilian allegedly stayed here with his elephant ( slon means “elephant”); the
hotel was actually built in 1937, however. Packed full of amenities (most of which you
probably won't use), guest rooms are fairly standard and quite comfortable, but you
may need to carry your own luggage up to the room.
Slovenska cesta 34, 1000 Ljubljana.
&
01/470-1131. Fax 01/251-7164. www.hotelslon.com. 171 units.
117
($239-$448) suite. Amenities: 2 restaurants; breakfast room; cafe;
delicatessen; nightclub; Jacuzzi, sauna; gift shop; Internet. In room:A/C, TV, tea- and coffeemaking facility, minibar,
hair dryer, safe, Internet, Jacuzzi (suites).
-165
($146-$206) double; 191
-358
INEXPENSIVE
Located in the Metelkova precinct, an area in the old part of town that is experiencing
progressive urban renewal, and a heady nightlife, Celica Youth Hostel ( & 01/230-
9700; www.hostelcelica.com); 17
/$21-$34 per bed) offers a novel stay in what
was once part of the barracks of the JNA (Yugoslav People's Army); the most celebrated
rooms are converted prison cells (48
-27
/$60 double), given a design makeover by a num-
ber of invited artists. You pay for the level of privacy that you enjoy: First floor dorms
have facilities shared by 40 people, while on the second floor there's one bathroom per
dorm. Breakfasts are a touch better than the usual hostel fare, and linen and towels are
provided free of charge. There's a self-service laundry, free Internet, and an on-site tourist
agency that organizes trips through the city and throughout Slovenia.
WHERE TO DINE
Considering its size, Ljubljana has huge number of restaurants, most of them good.
You'll find plenty of options along the Ljubljanica River, but these fill up quickly at
dinnertime, so get there early. If you're looking for a place that tourists haven't discov-
ered (probably because Tourist Information hasn't either), try The P.E.N. Klub
(Tomisiceva 12; & 01/251-4160 ), in the headquarters of the Writers' Society. Near
the parliament and behind the Opera House, this Bohemian-styled place is where
Chef Miki has local foodies, politicians, and intellectuals in his thrall. You will how-
ever need to call ahead to check if it's open, and whether they can find a table for you.
EXPENSIVE
AS SLOVENE/ITALIAN A casual terrace disguises a beautiful interior signal-
ing this restaurant's excellent pedigree. Consistently producing top-notch food and
attracting VIPs and celebs, this exclusive joint it the best in town. The menu (for which
there isn't much need thanks to on-the-ball waiters) changes according to the seasons,
and is often based on whatever owner-chef Svetozar Raspopovic finds when he
sometimes pops over to Trieste in neighboring Italy to pick up the day's inspirational
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