Slovakia - Eastern Europe - page 632

pork, a house specialty, is served with sauerkraut and bread dumplings, similar to what
you would find in the Czech Republic, but the black peppercorns give the pork an
added dimension you won't find across the border.
Nov; Smokovec 30 (a short walk from either the Star; Smokovec or Nov; Smokovec railroad stations). & 0915/
937-111. Lunch and dinner items 150 Sk-240 Sk ($5-$8/£2.75-£4.40). No credit cards. Daily 11am-9pm.
Inexpensive
Polská Krcma POLISH If you're not planning a trip north of the border, you
might consider sampling a plate of Polish pierogies (“pirohy” in Slovak) here at one of
the few Polish restaurants on the Slovak side of the Tatras. The “Farmer's Plate” allows
you to try a half-order of pierogies, potato-filled dumplings topped with sour tangy
sheep's cheese, and a half order of halu s ky, also topped with sheep's cheese and bits of
bacon. The family owners are obviously aiming at the many Polish tourists, but a typ-
ical night brings just as many Slovaks and visitors from elsewhere. Located about a
kilometer east of Star ; Smokovec on the road to Tatranská Lomnica.
A Good Walk
Although the High Tatras attract many serious hikers, there are trails for
walkers of all abilities, and some of the most beautiful walks require only
an intermediate level of skill and exertion. One of the best of these follows
the beautiful, red-marked “Magistrale” trail for part of its length from just
above Hrebienok to the mountain lodge at Sliezsky Dom (www.sliezsky
dom.sk) and back down to the electric railroad station at Tatranská Polianka
(for a total walking time of 5-6 hr.).
Start the hike in Star; Smokovec, from where you can follow the green-
or blue-marked trails for about an hour uphill to Hrebienok, an elevation
difference of about 300m (900 ft.). If you want to save energy, take the
funicular from behind the Grand Hotel up to Hrebienok. From Hrebienok
pick up the red-marked Magistrale trail and follow the signposts in the
direction of Sliezsky Dom. (Be careful, the signs are tricky; you should be
walking with the mountains to your right and the valley to your left.) The
walk begins in the forest, and as you move uphill, the large trees gradually
thin out and the dwarf pines start. After another hour of gradual climbing,
you break through the tree line along ridges just below some of the lower
peaks. Here, the views, both up and down, are nothing short of spectacu-
lar. After another hour or so, you'll round a bend and see the boxy Sliezsky
Dom lodge in the distance. Stop in at Sliezsky Dom for a light hot meal.
From here, you can follow the road down to Tatranská Polianka, or if you
have the time and energy, take the green-marked trail. The walk from
Sliezsky Dom down to the electric railroad station will take another 2 hours.
No matter how long or short a hike you're planning, there are a few rules
to follow: Remember to get an early start to avoid getting stranded in an
afternoon rain- or snowstorm; always wear sturdy shoes to avoid ankle
turns on the descent; and always pack extra water, sunscreen, sunglasses, a
water-resistant jacket, and a good map.