Slovakia - Eastern Europe - page 627

The Tatras have two main seasons, summer hiking season and ski season in winter.
Summer season starts in June, when the trails to the peaks are opened up to the pub-
lic, and runs through September. The hikes here are some of the best in Europe, and
if you enjoy walking, then pick up some maps and gear and plan on staying at least a
few days. In addition to hiking, a fledgling mountain-biking industry is taking hold.
Ski season, depending on the weather, starts in mid-December and runs to mid-
March. The best skiing is situated near S trbské Pleso, but all three major resorts have
lifts and ski-rental facilities.
Most of the best hikes, hotels, and restaurants are clustered around the High Tatra's
three main resort towns, all easily reachable by car or electric railroad from the regional
capital of Poprad. At the far western edge is S trbské Pleso. The word “pleso” means
“tarn” and refers to the resort's large mountain lake. At the center is the largest resort,
Smokovce, divided into “Star ; ” (old) and “Nov ; ” (new) Smokovec. Star ; Smokovec
has the largest station on the Tatra's electric railroad, and is a junction for reaching the
other resorts. The third resort is Tatranská Lomnica to the east of Star ; Smokovec.
Everyone has his or her favorite resort, but of the three I prefer Star ; Smokovec. As
the main rail junction, it's easier to get around. It's also in better physical condition
and feels livelier. S trbské Pleso is favored by skiers, since the best slopes are here. It also
offers some of the best trails to the peaks, if climbing to the top of the mountain is on
your list of things to do. Tatranská Lomnica, since it lies on a spur of the electrical rail-
way, is quieter and boasts two of the area's best hotels. One disadvantage is that you'll
have to travel a bit to get to the best hiking trails.
One note about the environment: In late 2004, a freak windstorm struck a wide
swath of the High Tatras, knocking down tens of thousands of trees in a matter of
minutes. The damage was greatest in the area between S trbské Pleso and Star ;
Smokovec. The initial reaction was shock, but the authorities have since worked night
and day to clear the fallen trees. You'll still see extensive damage, especially in the lower
ranges, but the overall beauty of the mountains remains intact.
GETTING THERE
BY PLANE The Bratislava-based budget carrier SkyEurope (www.skyeurope.sk)
now flies twice daily from London's Stansted airport to Poprad - Tatry field ( & 052/
776 - 3875 ), about 5km (3 miles) outside of town. CSA also offers regular flights to
the Tatras from Prague, but the flights usually go to Ko s ice airport, with a minibus
transfer to Poprad (2 hr.).
BY TRAIN Poprad is a major rail junction and Z SR state railroad train service is
relatively frequent to and from Bratislava, Z ilina, and Ko s ice. From Bratislava, the
journey on an express train takes about 5 hours; from Z ilina, 2 hours, and from
Ko s ice, 2 hours. From Poprad station, the Tatra Electric Railroad runs directly to Star ;
Smokovec and S trbské Pleso, about 30 minutes to Star ; Smokovec and 1 hour to S trb-
ské Pleso. To reach Tatranská Lomnica, change trains in Star ; Smokovec.
BY CAR Poprad lies on Slovakia's major east-west highway. The drive from
Bratislava follows the Váh river north to Tren c ín and Z ilina, before turning east. Some
of the drive is along four-lane highway and takes about 4 hours. From Ko s ice, the
drive is along mostly two-lane highway and takes about 2 hours.
BY BUS Slovakia's national bus carrier, SAD, maintains regular service from Poprad
to many regional cities and towns, including Levo c a. You can also use the bus station