Slovakia - Eastern Europe - page 618

INEXPENSIVE
Penzión Gremium Aimed at hipster singles and penniless but stylish younger
couples, the kind of people who frequent the popular, ground-floor cafe. The accom-
modations are basic, but the rooms are clean and security is good. The location is
excellent, just outside the Old Town, within easy walking distance of anything you
might want to see. The staff is as friendly and laid-back as the clientele and can pro-
vide information on what's on culturally around town.
Gorkého 11. & 02/5413-1026. Fax [phone]. www.gremium.sk. 15 units. 1,650 Sk ($55/£30) double. AE, DC,
MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant.
WHERE TO DINE
Bratislava's restaurant scene has exploded in the past few years. The number of places
has grown, the range of choices has increased, and, most importantly, the quality of
what's on offer is much better. Most of the restaurants are clustered in or around the
Old Town or near the Castle. Bratislava is a relatively casual city and aside from the
fanciest restaurants in the high-end hotels you can pretty much come as you are. Meal
times are standard, with 7:30pm being the hardest-to-get reservation. Most restau-
rants serve late into the evening, especially during the summer, but don't let it go too
terribly late. Kitchens generally start closing down around 10pm or so.
VERY EXPENSIVE
Mezzo Mezzo CONTINENTAL This sleek northern-Italian-style brasserie is
one of the better newcomers in recent years. The attention to detail is similar to the
Tempus, but the menu slants more toward Mediterranean cooking (with some inter-
national, including the inevitable Asian, influences). The house specialty is veal
Marsala; the pumpkin soup has become a kind of Bratislava institution. The perfect
spot for a pre- or postconcert dinner. Early opening hours make this a possible stop
for breakfast or coffee. Reservations recommended.
Rybárska Braná 9. & 02/5443-4393. Lunch and dinner items 360 Sk-420 Sk ($12-$14/£7-£8). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily
9am-1am (last orders at 11:45pm).
Tempus Fugit CONTINENTAL Something about the simple, softly lit,
modern decor pulls you in from one of the city's more chaotic side streets (the Irish bar
is right across the street). The restaurant occupies three floors of a beautifully restored
Renaissance building. You won't find many classic Slovak dishes on the menu; the theme
is more French haute cuisine, but the roast suckling pig is one of the specialties here.
Boasts one of the best wine collections in the Old Town. Reservations recommended.
Sedlárska 5. & 02/5441-4357. Lunch and dinner items 360 Sk-420 Sk ($12-$14/£7-£8). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily
11am-1am.
EXPENSIVE
Modrá Hviezda SLOVAK Come more for the traditional atmosphere than for
the Slovak food, which is still very good. There's something about climbing the steps
to the castle in the evening on the way here that makes Modrá Hviezda feel like a spe-
cial outing. In warm weather, the terrace, with views over the Old Town and the futur-
istic SNP bridge, is the place to be. In colder weather, the rich interior feels more like
a Gothic wine cellar. Sit back and let the waiters, some English-speaking, guide you
through the mains and wines. Reservations advisable on Friday and Saturday evening.
Beblavého 14. & 02/5443-2747. Lunch and dinner items 240 Sk-390 Sk ($8-$13/£4-£7). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon-Sat
11am-11pm.