Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Babushkas
The word babushka technically means “grandmother” in Russian, but the
term encompasses much more, a whole mindset and layer of the Russian
population. You'll see the babushka everywhere: guarding a museum, run-
ning a coat check, patrolling the metro escalators, sweeping Red Square, or
suspiciously eyeing your untucked shirt. She may or may not be wearing the
brightly flowered headscarf often associated with the word “babushka” in
the West. She may not have grandchildren, or may not be particularly old.
But if she has the attitude, she's a babushka.
The babushka considers it her responsibility to keep the world dressed
warmly, well-nourished, free of infection, and properly groomed. She'll give
you an earful if you're out hatless in winter. She'll huff if you hand her a
coat to check that's wrinkled or missing a button—and she may even mend
it for you.
If you speak no Russian, you may not notice the critiques babushkas send
in your direction. If you understand Russian or if a babushka upbraids you
in English, stay cool. You may find it intrusive, but she wants what's best for
you, even if she's never seen you before in her life. In other words, she
wants you to feel right at home.
more, featuring music by Russian and international composers. The Grand Hall is
home to the St. Petersburg Philharmonic but shares its stage with visiting performers.
Both halls boast ornate and intricate interiors and superb acoustics, though they're in
need of renovation. Mikhailovskaya St. & 812/110 - 4164. www.philharmonia.spb.ru. Tickets
$20-$35 (£11-£19) in Bolshoi Hall; $5-$15 (£2.65-£7.95) in Glinka Hall. Metro: Gostiny Dvor.
DANCE CLUBS & BARS
Akvarel Several of the ship-restaurants along the north side of the Neva offer dance
clubs at night, but this all-glass dockside restaurant/club is by far the sleekest way to
party on the water. Door control gets fierce after 11pm; if you come for dinner and
stay for the party you'll have no problem passing muster. 14a Prospekt Dobrolyubova.
& 812/320 - 8600. Metro: Sportivnaya.
City Bar This bar is run by an American and attracts a mixed Russian-expat crowd
for its “Amerikansky Biznes Lunch” at midday and its lively bar at night. Beer, marti-
nis, and a Sunday all-you-can-drink champagne brunch for just $12 (£6) are among
its highlights. 10 Millionaya Ulitsa. & 812/314 - 1037. Metro: Nevsky Prospekt.
Fishfabrique Part of the Pushkinskaya 10 art complex, this is the hippest and most
creative place for alternative bands, though perhaps the smallest. Open daily from
3pm to 6am; concerts usually take place Thursday through Saturday. 10 Pushkinskaya
Ulitsa. & 812/164 - 4857. Cover $2-$8 (£1.05-£4.25) for concerts. Metro: Ploshchad Vosstaniya.
Jakata Consistently hip, and playing a mix of lounge, techno, and trance, this is
the city's most authentic and least pretentious dance club. Open daily 24 hours, but
don't bother showing up before midnight. 5 Bakunina Ulitsa. &
812/346 - 7461. Metro:
Ploshchad Vosstaniya.
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