Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The Baltic Sea coast from Kaliningrad up toward St. Petersburg holds nearly all of
the world's amber. Amber rings, necklaces, pens, and other souvenirs are widely avail-
able in St. Petersburg. Amber House (Yantarny Dom) ( & 812/112 3013 ) on Ulitsa
Marata, has a broad and reliable but pricey selection of jewelry made from amber and
Siberian stones.
For china and porcelain, try the Lomonosov Porcelain Factory ( & 812/560
8300 ), opened in 1744 by Peter the Great's daughter, Empress Elizabeth I. Its crafts-
people designed china for the royal family and nobility. After the revolution they pro-
duced plates with Constructivist Soviet art and propaganda slogans. Today it's been
reprivatized, and sells both imperial and Soviet patterns.
Eliseyevsky Gastronome ( & 812/311 9323 ) on Nevsky Prospekt is a reincarna-
tion of a czarist-era shop with a rich selection of teas, sweets, and Russian treats,
beneath crystal chandeliers and surrounded by stained-glass windows.
Russian Icon ( & 812/314 7040 ) on Bolshaya Konyushennaya (near Nevsky
Prospekt) has an extensive array of icons on display. They're all recently made, mean-
ing you'll have no problem taking them out of the country, but they follow the same
rules icon-painters have adhered to for centuries. The icons are more expensive than
those at the monasteries, but the selection is larger.
ST. PETERSBURG AFTER DARK
Most of St. Petersburg's liveliest and richest cultural events take place during the mag-
ical summer weeks when there is no “after dark,” under the soft, elongated sunset of
the White Nights. Of course, this city that considers itself Russia's cultural capital is
alive with performances the rest of the year as well. The city's club and bar scene hasn't
reached the superlative debauchery of Moscow's, but St. Petersburg's discos and casi-
nos still offer plenty to shock and stimulate a Western visitor.
THE PERFORMING ARTS
Jazz Philharmonic Hall For more traditional shows, head to St. Petersburg's jazz
shrine, whose large hall offers balconies and a nostalgic atmosphere. Performances are
consistently excellent, with classically trained performers. Shows start at 7pm daily.
Check out the Museum of Petersburg Jazz on the second floor. 3 Fontanka Naberezhnya.
& 812/164 - 8565. Tickets $5-$10 (£2.65-£5.30). Metro: Vladimirskaya.
Mariinsky Theater Viewing anything in this theater makes you feel regal.
The sea-green exterior encloses a five-tiered theater draped, embroidered, and gilded
in blue and gold. Top-floor seats have a dimmer view of the performers but a close-up
view of the ceiling frescoes that draw you right into their pillowy clouds and floating
angels. The repertoire of the renowned and rigorous Mariinsky (formerly Kirov) Bal-
let features mostly classics such as Sleeping Beauty and La Bayadere . Tickets purchased
at the box office are cheaper than those bought through your hotel, but availability is
limited. 1 Teatralnaya Sq. & 812/114 - 5264. www.mariinsky.ru/en. Tickets $6-$18 (£3.25-£9.75) for
3rd balcony seats; $100-$150 (£54-£81) for orchestra. Metro: Sadovaya or Sennaya Ploshchad.
Peter and Paul Cathedral The cathedral inside the Peter and Paul Fortress is the
main hall of the St. Petersburg Men's Choir, which carries on the tradition of its
czarist-era founders. A stunning setting for some stunning voices, with performances
Monday and Friday nights. Tickets run from $15 to $22 (£7.95-£11.65) . Peter and Paul Fortress
(Hare's Island/Zaichy Ostrov). & 812/767 - 0865. Metro: Gorkovskaya.
Shostakovich Philharmonic Two halls, the Bolshoi (Grand) and Glinka (Small),
stage symphonies, solo piano concerts, international festivals and competitions, and
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