Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The ornate Eliseyevsky Gastronom ( & 095/209 0760) on Tverskaya Street has
an abundant collection of teas, sweets, and other Russian goods on display beneath its
soaring ceilings, while Aromatny Mir ( & 095/917 1160) on Ulitsa Pokrovka near
Kitai Gorod metro features a broad selection of vodkas you won't find at home, as well
as wines from the former Soviet republics of Georgia and Moldova, and rich Arme-
nian brandies.
MOSCOW AFTER DARK
A large proportion of Moscow's tourists come primarily for its performing arts or,
increasingly, its nightlife. Its reputation in both departments is well-deserved. The
most thorough English-language listings for theater, music, and movies are found in
the Friday edition of The Moscow Times (www.themoscowtimes.com). Check eXile
newspaper (www.exile.ru) for the latest hot clubs and bars.
PERFORMING ARTS
Bolshoi Theater Moscow's top dance venue remains the Bolshoi, the showcase for
several generations of internationally adored ballet stars. Tchaikovsky's classics still
form its backbone. Operas at the Bolshoi stick to the classics, such as The Marriage of
Figaro, The Barber of Seville, and Carmen. Tickets must be purchased at least a week
in advance. The Bolshoi is currently undergoing extensive renovations, expected to
take until at least 2008. The second stage is still open, hosting the main company and
all the same performances. 1 Teatralnaya Sq. & 095/292 - 9986 or 095/250 - 7317. www.bolshoi.ru.
Metro: Teatralnaya.
Chaliapin House Museum You'll really feel transported to prerevolutionary Rus-
sia during a concert in this house, where opera singer Fyodor Chaliapin lived and per-
formed for friends and family. A cluster of chairs around the piano ensures intimacy
with the soloists and small ensembles who perform here a few nights a week. 25 Novin-
sky Bulvar (next to the U.S. Embassy). & 095/205 - 6236. Metro: Barrikadnaya.
Maly Theater The theater is called “Maly” (small) only because it's across from the
Bolshoi (which means “big” or “grand”), but the Maly's hall is full-size and its perform-
ances top-quality. Most shows are in Russian, with an emphasis on classics from Chekhov,
Ostrovsky, and Griboyedov. 1/6 Teatralnaya Sq. (across from the Bolshoi). & 095/923 - 2521. Metro:
Teatralnaya.
Moiseyev Ballet Founded in 1937 by Bolshoi Theater choreographer Igor Moi-
seyev, this company sought to break free from the restraints of classical dance and has
been putting on brilliant performances of their mixture of ballet and folk dance ever
since. 31 Tverskaya St. & 095/299 - 5372. www.moiseyev.org.Metro: Pushkinskaya.
Moscow Conservatory (Konservatoria) This is the most popular and most his-
toric place to hear Russian and international classical music performed by the coun-
try's top orchestras and soloists. The conservatory, housed in an 18th-century mansion
now fronted by a statue of Tchaikovsky, is still the premier training ground for Rus-
sian musicians. 13 Bolshaya Nikitskaya St. & 095/299 - 8183. Metro: Arbatskaya.
DANCE CLUBS & BARS
Conservatory This atrium bar on the top floor of the Ararat Park Hyatt Hotel is one
of the few elegant and accessible places to watch Red Square at night. The ergonomic
design and gorgeous customers are as eye-catching as the view from the wraparound
windows. 4 Neglinnaya Ulitsa. & 095/783 - 1234. Metro: Teatralnaya or Kuznetsky Most.
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