Romania - Eastern Europe - page 553

Voronet, 3.5km (2 miles) from Guru Humorului. & 0230/23-0651. Fax [phone]. www.casaelena.ro. 35 units.
58 ($89) apt. Rates include breakfast and taxes. MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; sauna;

meeting rooms; room service; laundry; airport transfers; cart and sleigh rides; billiard table; traditional performances;
Internet; children's playground. In room:TV, minibar, hair dryer.

€ ($73) double; 71 €

WHERE TO DINE
Latino ITALIAN/INTERNATIONAL Across the road from the Armenian
Monastery, this is Suceava's best bet for either a drink or a meal. Young waiters with
Latin looks, long red aprons, and a willingness to go through the entire menu with
you make this place a delight. Start by sharing an “Aperitiv Latino”—a platter of
cheeses, Parma ham, and Italian salami, served with fresh bread. There's fine selection
of pastas and pizzas, but those with a real appetite should consider splashing out for
one of the duck (ra $â ) dishes, especially good with wild mushrooms.
Str Curtea Domneascâ.

&

0230/52-3627. Main courses L11-L29.50 ($4-$11/£2.10-£2.65). MC, V. Daily

10am-midnight.
EXPLORING MOLDAVIA'S PAINTED MONASTERIES
Among the great delights Romania has to offer (for some the greatest) are the monas-
tic churches in the southern Bucovina region of Moldavia. With exteriors and interi-
ors almost entirely covered in vivid frescoes of biblical tales—images rendering the
word of God (and the clergy) accessible to the illiterate masses—these are considered
so unique that the best preserved have been accorded UNESCO World Heritage sta-
tus. Bluntly put, these well-preserved examples are nothing short of miraculous, given
that their painted exteriors have faced exposure to extreme conditions, including snow
and blinding sun, for 400 to 500 years.
Located within fortified monastic complexes designed to stave off enemy attacks,
the churches were erected to thank God for victories in battles against the Turkish
invaders; the frescoes that adorn the churches thus also honor their founders and iron-
ically enough pay tribute to the violent warrior-leaders and womanizers, like ! tefan cel
Mare (Stephen the Great), who fought to protect the land from marauding invaders.
A cousin of Vlad the Impaler, ! tefan cel Mare was responsible for commissioning
many of the churches; canonized in 1992, he not only slaughtered countless Turks,
but left a trail of illegitimate children born of his voracious appetite for women.
Five monastic complexes are reviewed below, but there are many more that might
be explored during a longer visit to the region; if you don't want to join an organized
tour you will need to hire a car and driver or an English-speaking guide (see recom-
mendations below). Note, too, that the five “monasteries” described here are actually
inhabited by nuns rather than monks; nevertheless, they are all living religious mon-
uments, and visitors should dress accordingly; don't show up with bare legs or shoul-
ders (wraparound skirts are available for those ignorant of these strictly enforced
rules). There's a small fee for photography (L6/$2.15/£1.15) within the monastic
grounds, but cameras may not be used inside the churches. Opening times given here
are for the summer; times may vary during colder periods, when monasteries close ear-
lier. Admission is L4 ($1.45/75p).
Without too much of a rush, you can comfortably see all five monasteries reviewed
below in 1 day. For a top-notch monastery tour, look no further than knowledgeable
Ciprian ! lenku ( & 0744-292-588; [e-mail]), who will talk you
through the history and cultural significance of each of the monuments you visit, tai-
loring an outing to match your schedule. If he's not available, an equally rated guide