Romania - Eastern Europe - page 551

Great (who ruled 1457-1504) and his successor, Petrus Rare @ . Military success
ensured a cultural renaissance, evidenced in Moldavia's beautiful painted monasteries
that have earned great artistic acclaim, and attract visitors from around the world. The
most precious of these churches are all with a 60km (37-mile) radius of the city of
Suceava; once the princely seat of the Moldavian rulers, but thoroughly ruined dur-
ing Ceasc's reign, this is still a useful base from which to explore the churches. Mostly
situated in remote rural villages in lush landscapes, the churches of these monastic
complexes have almost all been painted—inside and out—with such astonishingly
unique and vivid frescoes that they have been accorded UNESCO World Heritage sta-
tus and are considered one of the great artistic treasures of Romania.
Today, Moldavia's capital is Ia @ i, the country's second-largest city, with an important
university. While it's not an obvious travel destination, it has some significant urban
architecture, and enjoys a lively cultural scene complemented by a cosmopolitan vibe
that points to the aspirations of its highly visible student population. Ia @ i is a good
place to wander, popping in to churches and wandering through squares as you dis-
cover its diverse inhabitants and their preferred spaces. It's also filled with reminders
of much-loved Mihai Eminescu, a lovesick poet whose tragic life perhaps epitomizes
Romania's notion of romance.
ESSENTIALS
Tarom (Str. Arcu 3-5; & 0232/26-7768 ) flies from Bucharest to Ia @ i every evening
at 8:45pm, and has additional daytime flights most weekdays. The airport is 5km (3
miles) from the center; call Delta Taxi ( & 0232/22-2222 ) or have your hotel send a
vehicle to pick you up. To explore the monasteries, you need to get to Suceava or the
nearby town of Guru Humorului (referred to as “GH” by locals). There are fewer
flights per week from Bucharest to Suceava, so you might want to consider flying to
Ia @ i and then taking a train to Suceava. The InterCity train from Bucharest to Ia @ i
takes between 6 and 7 hours. There are two IC trains daily, at 6:35am and at 5:19pm,
and several other slower options. From Ia @ i, Suceava is just 2 hours away.
To rent a car, contact Autonom Rent-a-Car (www.autonom.ro) in Ia @ i (Str. ! tefan
cel Mare 8-12; & 0232/22-0504 ) or Suceava (Str. Nicolae B â lcescu 2; & 0230/

€

($38) per day for a cheap model with unlimited mileage.
SUCEAVA & THE MONASTERIES OF SOUTHERN BUCOVINA
Suceava is 439km (272 miles) NE of Bucharest and 150km (93 miles) NW of Ia@i
Once an important Moldavian city, Suceava is one of those more severely impacted by
Ceau @ escu's industrialization program, its river poisoned by factory waste and its air
polluted by unsavory gases, yet it remains an important tourism hub for excursions to
the elegant painted monasteries in the surrounding countryside. Alternatively you
could base yourself in nearby Gura Humorului, a small town, well geared for travelers,
with privately run pensiunes by the bucket load.
WHERE TO STAY
In Suceava
Hotel Balada It may not be luxurious or even particularly inspiring, but the Bal-
ada is generally considered to be the best hotel in town. Guest rooms are clean and
tidy, and while not especially attractive, they are functional in an old-fashioned sort of
way. Unless you're dead set on the anonymity of a hotel, you'll have a better experi-
ence at Villa Alice, at less than half the price.

52-1101 ); you'll pay 30