Romania - Eastern Europe - page 549

returning to build ugly concrete houses that will, if unchecked, blight this idyllic
world forever.
THE WOODEN CHURCHES OF MARAMURE!
Traditional timber architecture defines the unique churches of Maramure @ ; built on a
pebble-filled stone block base, they are a peculiar evolution of the Gothic style, based
on the Blockbau system, using traditional techniques developed over generations by
the stone- and woodcutters of the region. Oak or pine beams are assembled using V-,
U-, or T-shaped joints, allowing solid, but flexible constructions, with a high, steep
double-pitched roof. That's the technical detail, anyway. In truth, their beauty lies in
the organic textures of their darkly weathered wood, which have an almost liquid
appearance; a shock of finely crafted dark chocolate assuming the shape of a church
amid overgrown cemeteries. These churches are particularly loved for their soaring bell
towers, one of which has long been recognized as the tallest wooden structure in
Europe. The churches were built to replace earlier constructions destroyed in 1717
during the Tartar invasions; barred from building permanent churches, their architects
decided on the wooden solutions seen today. They may not be ancient, but their sur-
vival over the last few centuries does make them special, since they are without any
real fortification. Briefly described here are a handful of the 93 wooden churches in
Maramure @ ; each listed under the village in which it is found. All of these churches
can be visited as excursions from accommodations recommended in either the Mara
or Izei valleys. You'll more than likely find the churches locked; even if you are visit-
ing without a guide, it should be quite easy to track down the key. Don't be afraid to
approach one of the locals and then hint that you're looking for the key by saying
“chiea?” (kay-yah) while indicating the church. You'll almost certainly receive a posi-
tive response. Although nobody will say anything, it's only reasonable to leave a small
donation (L5-L10/$1.80-$3.60/£1-£1.90) at each church you visit.
Bârsana Smaller than most of the churches, this was built in 1720 and was ini-
tially part of the Bârsana monastery. It was transferred to the present hilltop site in
1806, when a two-level portico was also added and the painter Hodor Toader added
to the original interior frescoes, demonstrating distinct baroque and rococo influences
on his work. A few kilometers from the village are the salubrious grounds of the Bâr-
sana Monastery, easily mistaken for Maramure @ 's very own Orthodox Disneyland.
Take a few minutes to wander around the manicured gardens and take a peek at the
16th-century church; most of the other monastic buildings were constructed after the
fall of Communism.
Bârsana, 19km (12 miles) SE of Sighet, Izei Valley.
Bude@$i The village of Bude @ ti is charming; children charge around on bicy-
cles, while grown-ups in traditional attire make conversation in the streets. Your only
problem might be finding the local priest who has the key to the Church of St.
Nicholas; he'll require some tracking down if you want to see the frescoed interior.
This is one of the most celebrated examples of the Maramure @ style, built of oak in
1643; it is considered large—18m (59 ft.) long and 8m (26 ft.) wide. The earliest
paintings are by Alexandru Ponehalski, rendered in 1762; while the work in the sanc-
tuary is by Ioan Opris, and dates from 1832.
Bude@ti, Mara Valley.